The New Nordic Cuisine, born from a manifesto that for two decades dictated the rhythm of Scandinavian restaurants (but not only), transforming Denmark, Sweden, and Norway into gastronomic destinations previously unknown to foodies, has profoundly evolved over time. It has begun to draw on new forms and ideas, broadening its horizons, in some cases recovering a certain French classicism never completely forgotten, and seeking a balance between its sustainable identity, rooted in foraging and local production, and the inevitable urge to evolve by looking elsewhere. Still, it can always count (an aspect by no means secondary) on a prosperous clientele and international culinary appeal that has never faded.

Paradoxically, you now find many Nordic stylistic codes outside Scandinavia, in bakeries and restaurants opened worldwide by the ‘children of Noma.’ The fact remains, however, that Copenhagen is the beacon for an entire geographical and gastronomic region. Here stands Jordnær, chef Eric Vildgaard’s restaurant, a rising star of Scandinavian fine dining that in just a few seasons has become a must-visit destination for international foodies. (Ed. note: we already wrote about him six years ago on Cook_inc.’s online pages, when he was just a promising newcomer.)

Life like a film

Gentofte is a quiet suburb of Copenhagen, reachable in just a few minutes by commuter train. Here, amidst a slightly sleepy pace, bicycles along the sidewalks, and elegant villas, lies — quite unexpectedly inside an old three-star hotel — the equally three-starred Jordnær. Since its opening eight years ago, it has been run by the couple Eric Vildgaard and Tina Kragh. He is imposing, heavily tattooed, with an often inscrutable gaze; she is petite, elegant, distinguished by her red hair. He commands the brigade, dancing between pots and pans; she welcomes guests with a wide smile at the door. Nothing unusual, if not for the impeccable service, the softly lit and hushed dining room, the refined cuisine, the rare attention to detail, and a wine list dominated by the finest French sparkling wines.