To understand Istanbul – a complex, layered city divided between continents and contradictions – we have chosen to rely on a special perspective: that of Maksut Aşkar. A visionary chef, the soul behind the restaurant Neolokal, Maksut is one of the most authoritative voices in the new Turkish cuisine. But before being a chef, he is a curious storyteller, capable of reading his city through flavors, habits, and everyday rituals.

Originating from Iskenderun, in southern Turkey, Maksut moved to Istanbul at a young age and over the years has built a deep connection with this sprawling and fascinating metropolis. His narrative weaves between past and present, hidden alleys and bustling markets, the European and Asian sides of the Bosporus.

Together with him, we have mapped out a personal, almost intimate journey: a map made of heartfelt addresses, street food stalls, resilient shops, and glimpses that escape the tourist radar. An itinerary that, before bringing us back to the table at Neolokal, tells the story of Istanbul in fragments, through the eyes, memory, and taste of those who inhabit it every day.