Reportage
beyond nikkei
Coherencia y sabor at Maido in Lima

Mitsuharu Tsumura & all the accents of Peruvian cuisine

Words by
Lorenzo Sandano
Photos of the dishes by
Pocho Caceres
Coherencia y sabor at Maido in Lima
13 minutes

Maido is Peru, Maido is Lima. A city that absorbs and dazzles you with its polychrome contrasts collected in an unparalleled urban design. Multicolored multiethnic infiltrations; poverty and wealth; abandoned architectures juxtaposed with modern giants and relics of ancient civilizations. And then mountains, desert, and cliffs overlooking the ocean spread along a single heart-wrenching landscape. Yet, this labyrinth of seemingly fractured scenarios shines with a harmony that captures the heart and seals a magnetic invitation to return as soon as you are about to leave.

Perhaps a coincidence, but the etymology of the term Maido also underlines this significance. This is explained by Mitsuharu Tsumura, known as “Micha” who is the chef and co-founder of Maido restaurant, now celebrating its fifteenth anniversary since opening.

“Many translate the word from Japanese as a simple welcome, but the meaning is much deeper, it is our recurring invitation to make you want to come back. This dining spot should not be perceived as an address to check off the list of places to visit once in a lifetime. Whether you are Peruvian or from any other part of the world, you will always find a space ready to welcome you with renewed enthusiasm.”

Want to keep reading this article?
Log in or subscribe.
Subscribe to Cook_inc.
With a subscription, you’ll get full access to Cook_inc. — from in-depth stories to exclusive content. Join the fam!
Find out more

Related articles
Things you didn’t know you wanted to read