“Not for money, not for glory, or for popularity. But for love, yes, deep and disruptive love. And a bit for thirst, but only for good things to drink. A reflection that becomes obvious after just a few minutes of entering the microcosm of Locanda Mariella in Calestano. The actual village is Fragnolo, a small urban area near Parma that is not the easiest to find if you don’t have a good reason to venture there. The best reason is embodied by this inn, which over the years has become a stronghold for foodies and wine enthusiasts converging from all over. Although the surrounding area may give off scents of typical trattorias or traditional flavors, you’ll need to reset your expectations if you’re heading this way. The main characters, cuisine, and identity stand out from any other place you may find in the neighborhood. Not just here, but in the vicinity as well. When we step outside, we immediately notice a world-famous street artist – Paolo Capezzuoli AKA Zero-T – painting the walls of the structure with a huge mural paying homage to the passions of the two owners. “Commissioning these graffiti is our way of leaving an artistic mark over time,” explains Mariella Gennari, the owner after whom the sign is named. “We consume food and wine too quickly, while we hope this artwork remains imprinted longer as a legacy of who we are.”

Paolo creates a whole wall of stylized bottles at the entrance, using swirling sprays and chromatic reflections, just below a cemetery of vintage labels placed in vases as a testament to many past drinks. “We prefer bottles over flowers because they need less water,” says Mariella wittily, joking about the surroundings. She’s quite a tough lady. With a neatly freakish look – wearing a Che Guevara t-shirt – and always ready with a joke from someone who has truly seen and experienced a lot. We are welcomed into a retro-chic dining area, where we are offered bread, oil, some slices of salami, and extra tasty Parmigiano shavings. “I get everything, when possible, from local artisans or small niche realities,” she says. “Even the bread. It may not be perfect, but it’s from the last serious bakery in the area. I prefer to support the local area as much as I can with these small gestures. If something more specific is needed, however, we also don’t refuse distributors. The important thing is to always be consistent and respectful.”

“The aperitif unravels the languor and predisposes well to listen to the story of the Inn.”