The parable of the beachfront dining establishments follows the tragicomic rhythm of a summer hit formatted by the book: redundant dishes plucked from a faded maritime imaginary, often generic raw materials, cover charge and cruise-level service with 360-degree dominance of neglect. An economizing policy that rests on the altar of obviousness: if the sea whets the appetite and the hungry beachgoer succumbs to laziness, even minimal effort ensures bringing home the result thanks to the privileged seaside location. Thank goodness not everyone thinks this way, in fact, a large group of deserving restaurateurs are increasingly investing to remedy this “touristic” mechanism in order to revalue marine cuisine with quality beach structures. The Lazio coast has boasted a prolific scene on the topic for years, so much so that it seemed only right to select five “safe havens” in an idyllic itinerary from Fregene to Anzio, to enjoy a proper refreshment, savoring summer even until late September.
The stainless anchor of the Baia di Fregene and dream sunsets at il Soffio
“If the claim inherited from the aficionados is ‘A La Baia is always beautiful,’ there must be some reason for it. One reason stands out: touching on the theme of the modern ‘culinary revolution’ flourishing in the coastal establishments, much of the credit is due to the ingenuity and perseverance of Beniamino Gili (known as Benny) and his formidable team. This historic establishment in Fregene has been one of the pioneers in offering a high-quality experience (pushing local catch with skill and mastery, without ever derailing into pretentious dishes that would pollute the essence of authentic sea dining).”
The strength of this place lies in its inherently popular spirit, based on collective well-being, combined with an incessant desire to improve without overdoing it.
The creative contribution in the kitchen of Riccardo Gili (son of Benny) has brought liveliness to the menu, often featured on the chalkboard, as well as collaborations with local artisans such as the baker Luca Pezzetta or the pastries from the renowned Pasticceria Patrizi in Fiumicino. Everything evolves each year with great consistency, in line with the excellent wine list and various impromptu initiatives, such as the self-produced Gin branded as Gastrofighetti. The restaurant is practically open non-stop even during the autumn months, and in the summer, dining takes place in the spacious patio with a veranda or directly with feet in the sand. The menu ranges from timeless classics like the Creamy Shrimp Risotto and the iconic Spaghetti with telline clams and “herbs of the scrubland” to innovative seasonal dishes like the Fish Tacos or Pici pasta with mussel sauce and semi-matured cheese.
It is almost impossible to find something that would make you wrinkle your nose, whether it’s for the fabulous welcome in the dining room or for the flawless executions ready for the summer crowds. For about three years, Benny has made the beach kiosk available to beachgoers near the umbrellas at the dreamteam of Fischio (a famous enological meeting point in Rome) delighting beach lovers with Soffio: incredible musical selections (with international DJs on weekly rotation); a vibrant natural-oriented wine list and a culinary offer infused with a savvy touch by Guglielmo Fedele (a roaming chef, also with experience at Tipografia Alimentare in Milan). The combination of Baia + Soffio is a dream – kissed every evening by the purplish sunset of Fregene – to experience that fateful summer that you wish would never end.
The Mastino guarding a family legacy following the untamable flow of the sea
The sign of Mastino, in Fregene, is steeped in history, famous faces, and sea salt like the walls of this charming restaurant clinging along the shore. Over about 50 years, everyone has sat here from Fellini to Ferilli, passing through Volonté, Agnelli, politicians of every party, or even a glamorous Edwige Fenech during the golden age of Italian Sexy Comedy films. However, those glamorous past connections have little impact on the nature of this establishment, shaped rather by passion, honesty, and family devotion. The unofficial motto appears to resonate with an imperious yet genuine “everything in the family.” Since the early days of Ignazio Mastino and his wife Filomena – who set up a revered kitchen from scratch, despite their fisherman profile – the legacy has passed down through generations involving almost the entire family core in the kitchen operations, hospitality, and management of the adjacent establishment.
The most significant shift was orchestrated with talent by the two brothers Lorenzo and Bartolomeo Mastino. The former, a true star and jack-of-all-trades in orchestrating the dining room and promoting the true philosophy of current cuisine; the latter delving into a formative study of hospitality and modernizing the wine cellar with intriguing and dynamic labels in progression. A large group of cousins and relatives are always on hand: some tidying up beach chairs and umbrellas; others carving ornamental works displayed along the walls; some manning the grand charcoal grill or plating appetizers in the kitchen; others serving niche aperitifs and DJ sets through the recent offshoot Lisketta, set up in a kiosk just steps away from the shoreline. There is a palpable vibrant energy permeating the establishment, which doesn’t dwell on the past with a nostalgic gaze, but rather reprocesses its virtues with updated gestures. As proof of these vibes, a youthful team in the dining area includes the lively and passionate personality of the skilled Tommaso.
The menu is centered around maritime tradition, high-quality products, and meticulous craftsmanship (the daily shucking of telline clams alone would deserve an Oscar). However, there are also captivating exploits like the Maritozzetto filled with chickpea cream, pink shrimp tartare, and green sauce. But when it comes to the classics, it’s hard not to be moved: Fried baby squid with a marinade of sharp pungency; Calamarata pasta with a powerful broth and a minimalist yet sumptuous concoction, intentionally devoid of excessive creaminess. A special mention goes to the masterful Grilled Fish (ask for recommendations from Lorenzo based on availability), served with homemade potato chips that are truly addictive. As for desserts, a harmonious blend of sea freshness and hospitality encapsulates the whole experience. In the summer, you can enjoy the outdoor seating or lounge on the spacious elevated terrace, but the spaces are also prepared to face the winter: gathered in the warmth of the indoors, in front of the monumental wooden table where the prodigious Mastino family gathers for lunch every day.
Marine Village: a beach paradise shaped by international breezes
The initial impact is striking and unexpected: in the thin strip of coast between Ostia and Torvaianica, this establishment stands out for its sophisticated and massive architecture from the outside (with ample private parking). Upon entering, one is engulfed in a voluminous complex boasting a large courtyard with sun loungers, two kiosks equipped for bars and seaside DJ sets, a cozy sports club, a pizzeria area, and the restaurant named Ugo al Villaggio. Those unaware might label it as a “wannabe” miniature tourist village on the beach: nothing could be further from the truth! Marine Village is an ambitious project, meticulously crafted thanks to the consolidated flair of Gabriele Ziccarelli and an enlightened group of partners. Visiting season after season, one is truly enchanted by the quality of each accessible area: the cohesive and high-performing staff dictates the course of the experience, with notable champions in the F&B realm such as chef Valentino Scerpa and bar manager Matteo Raso.
The international approach to customer care is undoubtedly the highlight of this place: signature cocktails are available non-stop at the main kiosk of the Paradiso Beach Bar, which also offers a selection of tasty dishes in the beach-facing patio or directly while relaxing on a sunbed. Not only do the cocktails stand out, but the food and pizza showcase remarkable quality. The luxury of dining in the comfort area equipped with sunbeds and gazebos – with the assistance of attentive waitstaff ready to serve you – makes everything even more magical. Not to be overlooked is the quality of the menu at the Ugo restaurant: while the traditional classics ensure delightful satisfaction (the fried food is among the best in this area), the more unique dishes, created by chef Scerpa, will amaze you with their respect for high-quality ingredients and thoughtful creative touches. Indulge in the delicious Coratella di pesce (featuring buzzonaglia tuna) or the spicy Lumachine di mare all’arrabbiata; enjoy the pungent and clear flavors of the anchovies in Gin or the fish tartare that hints at ceviche with crunchy bell pepper and onion; be captivated by the mixed pasta with potatoes, mussels, and smoked provola cheese.
The international approach to customer care is undoubtedly the highlight of this place: signature cocktails are available non-stop at the main kiosk of the Paradiso Beach Bar, which also offers a selection of tasty dishes in the beach-facing patio or directly while relaxing on a sunbed. Not only do the cocktails stand out, but the food and pizza showcase remarkable quality. The luxury of dining in the comfort area equipped with sunbeds and gazebos – with the assistance of attentive waitstaff ready to serve you – makes everything even more magical. Not to be overlooked is the quality of the menu at the Ugo restaurant: while the traditional classics ensure delightful satisfaction (the fried food is among the best in this area), the more unique dishes, created by chef Scerpa, will amaze you with their respect for high-quality ingredients and thoughtful creative touches. Indulge in the delicious Coratella di pesce (featuring buzzonaglia tuna) or the spicy Lumachine di mare all’arrabbiata; enjoy the pungent and clear flavors of the anchovies in Gin or the fish tartare that hints at ceviche with crunchy bell pepper and onion; be captivated by the mixed pasta with potatoes, mussels, and smoked provola cheese.
Fishing for the Jolly in Lido di Enea for a winning hand in the kitchen
Lavignio is often considered the coastal “fallback” hub preceding the destinations of Anzio, Circeo, or Terracina. However, places like Jolly Lido make this landing spot more enticing than any cliché. The Deus ex Machina here is Maurizio Criscuolo, who has transformed over time a typical beach shack into a refined dining spot. A self-taught culinary talent, he displays an encyclopedic knowledge of seafood ingredients that he does not hesitate to elevate with a genuine, sharp, and delightful seafood cuisine that is rarely found elsewhere. The charm of proto-decadent beach life has remained intact since the beginnings of the small bar (still active) complete with a standard ice cream fridge. However, today it often serves as a stage for baskets of freshly collected porcini mushrooms or triumphant aperitifs with bottles of Champagne. Criscuolo’s other great passion is for wine, evident in the remarkable enological gems in the cellar, best enjoyed while still in beach attire.
Maurizio’s wife, Annachiara, efficiently manages the dining room and kitchen, while the rest of the family coordinates the cash register and café counter. The tables are all set outside on a raised walkway with a canopy, offering a blissful view of the sea. Obsession for quality products as mentioned? It shines through in the dishes, whether by listening to the menu described orally and varying based on the day’s provisions (no farmed specimens allowed) or in the gustatory propulsion that bursts on the palate right from the appetizers. Local mantis shrimps just boiled to their iodized turgor with a dizzying mayonnaise; Grilled baby squid with salt and pepper resembling addictive salty-sweet candies; the aforementioned porcini mushrooms, sautéed in a pan and highlighted by incredible textural goodness. Among the first courses (impeccable nerve in pasta cooking) are Spaghetti with mussels from Lake Paola and pecorino, worth the trip: plump mollusks bursting with magnetic salinity. Also unmissable is the mixed fry (ask for the scorpion fish if available!) which, despite the detractors of batter, will leave you speechless with its sublime breading and the irreverent (yet exquisite) butter sauce with anchovies, lemon, and parsley with which it’s served.
Do not be intimidated by the abundant use of quality oil and whole cloves of garlic (enough to scare off a vampire) because the cleanliness of flavors reigns supreme here. The same goes for the portion sizes, perfect for sharing in hungry joy, with the constant feeling of never wanting to leave the table. Thanks to Maurizio, the Jolly is only open for lunch, but if you want to continue enjoying his dishes for dinner, you can find him at the forefront at Osteria Nuova in Anzio: the family’s second restaurant, with a more refined style, but with the same cooking philosophy. A fitting conclusion to your experience at Lido? On the last day of the season (around mid-September), they celebrate with convivial gatherings featuring polenta with sausage sauce, spare ribs, or stewed wild boar. Maurizio excels with seafood, but when he ventures into meat dishes, it’s another beautiful culinary experience.
The transformations of Baretto & the wine oasis of Vittorio
To fully talk about the Baretto, we would have to go back a few decades: when Lionello and Maria Rita Castaldi brightened the breaks of bathers on the border between Anzio and Nettuno, preparing express sandwiches, supplì, and legendary eggplant meatballs in an essential kiosk of another time leaning on the waterfront. That meeting point has remained – along with the mythical meatballs with a heart of stringy cheese – but all around, the current Tirrenino establishment has blossomed, bringing structural and culinary improvements that, however, have not altered the welcoming core established by the owner couple (now enjoying a well-deserved retirement). As a complement to the original kiosk, elegant sun loungers and row gazebos unwind now; comfortable cabins with bright colors; a warm veranda leaning on the sand; areas for children and a corner dedicated to aperitifs or DJ sets and everything a holidaymaker could desire.
The Baretto as such has not lost that adorable nickname, but was taken over ten years ago by Vittorio Castaldi, undergoing a gradual yet decisive metamorphosis. Vittorio is a kind of Clark Kent in gourmet attire: in the cold seasons, he wears the garb of a diligent lawyer in a double-breasted suit; while in summer, he transforms into a flamboyant host with brightly colored shirts, lively banter, and the unusual superpower of uncorking an unreasonable number of Champagnes at lightning speed. Jokes aside, the restoration work in food and wine carried out by Castaldi has been remarkable: that rudimentary kiosk of the early days now boasts a brilliant setup both aesthetically (with ample seating, attentive service, and a charming wooden platform extending onto the beach), and in a significant upgrade in the kitchen and wine cellar. Vittorio’s passion and knowledge of the universe of French vignerons (developed over many years of experience and wine tastings in the field) make this establishment a true haven for enjoying prestigious French labels at enviable prices. On the culinary front, the shrewd choice was to embrace the philosophy of simplicity and the best products available from the Anzio auctions.
The menu revisits the best that the average Italian appetite may aspire to at the table, with some occasional contaminations dictated by the cosmopolitan spirit of the good Vittorio: hypnotic stuffed and fried anchovies with aioli sauce; spectacular mussels in blue cheese cream; a colossal tuna Katsusando with wasabi mayonnaise and all the scents of the Riviera, such as a tasty fish soup and, if you’re lucky, some special first courses, like memorable Linguine with red shrimp and porcini mushrooms from Tuscia. After lunch – which often extends endlessly like the row of bottles accumulated along the walkway – one rolls joyfully on the beach for the effervescence of the bubbles: in the relentless attempt to crystallize the beautiful moment with the Tyrrhenian Sea on the horizon, not wanting to go back home. If you are daring and happen to be there on the weekend, you could even dare a “double” at dinner.
“Because the sea may tire you, but you never get tired of the Baretto.”
Certainly, we may have missed a few addresses along this route along the regional coasts, but having safe harbors like the ones mentioned is already a reassuring certainty in the “rough sea” of beachside dining in full summer. Dreaming of coastlines filled with realities more attentive to the level of offerings in the future, let’s support those who have believed in it and invested with undaunted enthusiasm from the beginning. Looking beyond the peak seasons, respecting oneself and the holidaymaker, with the wind always at our backs and the saltiness clinging to our skin.
