Barfly
PROVINCIAL BARS
Being out of the centre is the new centre.
The advantages of being in the provinces in two new-generation bar projects
Words by
Chiara Buzzi
Photo courtesy
Being out of the centre is the new centre.
5 minutes

The second life of the province has officially begun.

We are not only talking about a rebirth in terms of restaurant projects that have been increasingly frequent and serious in recent times, but the phenomenon also extends to other areas. Clear examples of this are the emergence of street bars and mixology scenes in the urban centers that populate the outskirts of major cities.

One of the most interesting facts is that it’s actually the young people, from Millennials to Gen Z, who after a series of experiences outside of Italy – or in any case far from home – choose to voluntarily return to their hometowns. It also happens that, after a certain period of time spent in frenzy and work pressure, a different set of priorities is chosen in life. This doesn’t necessarily mean an easier path or a smooth road, but rather a different management of personal life and career projects, as well as a search for new mental and physical balances.

“One of the major difficulties that has been with us since the beginning is never working at 100% of our potential. This is because as soon as there is an event, a holiday, or any other call to other places, people tend to evade,” tells us Ambrogio Ferraro, owner of Bar Is The Name in Busto Arsizio (a city in the Lombardy region of northern Italy, about 30 km northwest of Milan and near Milan Malpensa Airport, one of Italy’s main international airports). “Even before worrying about the business performance, I have tried to invest all of my energy and a good part of my staff’s training in building a hospitality that is rarely found in similar establishments in the area. Here, days are marked by routine, the habits of the clientele, and we have tried to do the same, even though cocktails are not necessarily something people consume every day. Managing to make the customer feel welcomed and anticipated, making them feel good, surrounding them with attention and courtesy is what has helped us create a positive memory in customers who came and met us for the first time.” Busto Arsizio is not a small village, but despite this, its proximity to major cities does not make it an easily accessible market square.

Ambrogio Ferraro chose to venture on his own by creating a concept from scratch, as the English would say, a team, a mixing project with a supporting snack bar proposal. Ambrogio is an enthusiastic, determined, and extremely professional guy, and right from the start, he was aware of being off the radar of most enthusiasts and foodies. Despite this, his aim from the beginning has been to do well, with consistency and seriousness, trying wherever possible to stand out and succeed in bringing out what is usually comfortable, accessible, central, and trendy.

“There are definitely advantages to being in the province. And I will surprise you with special effects by telling you that a flagship of which, in my small way, I am proud is precisely that aspect that for many is a sore point: the staff. Those who work for Bar Is The Name want this dimension, share our philosophy, and participate in our challenge. I am fortunate to have a very young and passionate team!”

Differently equal, even more compelling, is the story of Cinquanta Spirito Italiano, better known to all as Cinquanta. Alfonso Califano and Natale Palmieri have revived the idea of the Italian bar, a sports bar where one can meet from breakfast to lunch and even after dinner, without formality but offering great solidity. We are in Pagani, in the Campania hinterland between Salerno, Castellammare di Stabia, and Torre Annunziata. “In the 50s and 60s, the bar symbolized rebirth, economic boom, and a desire to dream. The Italian bar established itself as a place where one consumes time and space of quality, but where only coffee appears on the bill. When we opened – a sort of cathedral in the desert – one of the initial challenges was not having qualified staff. Many of the boys who make up the team have been with us since the beginning, and this makes us proud, but the work of training and formation has been impactful,” explains Califano.

Cinquanta Spirito Italiano is now a project of national and international hospitality renown, known for the quality of its human capital and its long-term vision. “We have invested heavily in communication from the start. Today, it is something that sets us apart, reaching the customer almost before our proposal and allowing us to inaugurate with a high and engaged local public waiting,” says Alfonso. In the months leading up to the opening, the team worked analogically, in the opposite direction to current trends, opting for a public poster campaign.

“We printed posters sized 70×100 and six meters by three, featuring three well-known historic bartenders in the area. The chosen slogan was “In the same Spirit“, and we posted them in the neighboring towns of Nocera, Agri, and Pagani itself. This initiative was well-received, engaged the locals, immediately integrated us into the fabric of the city, and gave us a significant boost.” At the end of a workday, it’s not always possible to reach a colleague due to the long distances between one town and another, and perhaps it’s the exchange and sharing of ideas and thoughts that these young individuals sometimes miss. Nevertheless, Cinquanta is the classic example of a reality that the province has given and continues to give much to without specific hardships. “Working with brands has not always been easy, but more and more companies choose to invest in smaller centers, trusting in continuous work and the seriousness of many young entrepreneurs,” concludes Alfonso.

And how often do you overcome your laziness to trust a project outside the city center? Now you also have two unexpected names of worthy realities to set on your navigator.


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