The fun of exploring the food scene in an unfamiliar territory not only lies in the whats, but also the hows. Every society has certain unspoken dining etiquettes that reveal its very psyche. Those not knowing them by heart risk committing culinary faux pas that would garner, at best, a few chuckles from the locals, or at worst, unpleasant exchanges tainting their reputation.

In the case of Hong Kong, first-time travellers should remember it is a city where space comes in short supply. Urban density manifests itself in housing, transportation, as well as various culinary institutions. As a coping mechanism, the custom of daap toi, or table sharing, was born. Cramming as many people as possible helps feed a large population which habitually eats out. At the same time, small restaurant owners who operate with narrow profit margins need every chair (not table) turned over quickly to keep their businesses going.

Daap toi is practised in most of Hong Kong’s lay food spaces – dessert shops, teahouses serving tea and dim sum, cha chaan teng, a hybrid of café and diner, and beyond. Solo patrons or small groups are asked to do so whenever a joint has all its tables occupied but spare spots remaining. The lunch hour is, above all, the prime time for it, as office workers scramble for places to fill their bellies, so they can get back in time to attend to the world’s strictest business schedules.