I believe that the most representative form of delicatessen (“gastronomia” in Italian) resides in an all “Italian” tradition (forgive the excess of patriotism). I’m not just talking about a cold counter filled with ready-to-go dishes or a sophisticated version of a store dedicated to selecting products, cheeses, or charcuterie. The Italian imagery smells of rotating and succulent chickens dancing on the spit for 24 hours non-stop; roasts, side dishes, and smoking baked pasta; sly fried treats of all kinds to nibble on at any time; stuffed sandwiches, small sandwiches, and tray pizzas that turn your meal (and mood) around depending on daily appetites. A paradigm of a place, at times on the brink of extinction, branded into our consumption DNA. A format that today seems capable of being reborn by updating itself for the future: Gastronomia Gabrini in Rome is an exemplary prototype.
Timeless reinterpretations of the “neighborhood rotisserie”
Not only because it summarises and elevates all the aforementioned traits along spheres of continuous development, but also because it arises in a space that in the past embodied the archetype of the “old-school” Italian rotisserie. The heritage collected by Camilla Castroni, Leonardo Di Vincenzo, and the chef Marco Moroni was indeed that of the historic Gastronomia Franchi in the Roman district of Prati, which permanently closed its shutters in 2021 after decades of honorable service. Managing the legacy of such a symbolic activity is not an easy task, but Camilla Castroni’s intention (owner of the eponymous shop in Rome, located on the same street as the new venue) was to maintain a continuum with the previous reality, respecting its primary features and projecting them towards new interpretations.
In an industry that often celebrates the stereotype of “grandma’s cooking”, without reflecting on how the grandmothers of this generation may be losing connections to fundamental gastronomic traditions, projects like Gabrini already represent an essential heritage. The goal of the dynamic trio (Di Vincenzo, Castroni, and Moroni) has been remarkably achieved in terms of both aesthetic impact (with precious refurbishing of furnishings) and the offerings that capture every sense upon entering the establishment. Pizzas, focaccias, and various leavened products in many forms (from classic favorites to innovative variations) greet visitors at the entrance, smoothly transitioning into a seductive walkway of carefully selected salumi and cheeses sourced with the meticulous eye of ultra-sensitive connoisseurs from around the world (Italian and Lazio rarities, as well as those from Spain, England, France, Switzerland, Ireland, and more). Another area, showcasing the culinary versatility of Marco Moroni, follows: from early morning, with the aim of enhancing the lunch rush, the kitchen continuously produces a wide array of hot and cold dishes, adapting to seasons, current inspirations, and most importantly, a pure celebration of the prime ingredients gathered on-site.
As Camilla already brought a devoted imprint to the product genetic heritage (some references indeed come from the adjacent Castroni), Marco has instilled a sort of inviolable mantra in transforming any dish. “When I started young at the Bistrot Bio in Monteverde, I was already working with top-quality agricultural elements, but I tended to alter them due to the desire to express my creative side,” the chef explains. “Today, I feel much more relaxed and aware of my abilities and the things I enjoy doing; therefore, handling ingredients of this caliber every day is the greatest joy for me. The idea is to enhance them with simplicity; they have incredible potential for experimentation without ever getting bored. Even the rotisserie cooking, for example, gives me unimaginable satisfaction by using different cuts of meat other than chicken, up to experimenting with vegetables that cook only with their own juices, concentrating sugars and flavors without adding salt or anything else. The rotisserie fascinates me because it’s a technique that you constantly have to explore with care and intuition. You never stop learning from the past.”
The Inevitable Human Value of the Product
We taste the Supplì with Campofelice fiordilatte (strictly by phone), Carnaroli rice, and La Cattiva farm tomatoes to seal joyfully Moroni’s words, who delights us in sequence with a Fried Fucino potato bar with a generous snowfall of grated Parmigiano Reggiano and a turbo-toast with homemade Panbrioche, Cotto Branchi Riserva and a persistent Schlossberger cheese similar to Comtè.
The red mini-pizza, round, low, and crispy – picked from the corner of the oven – is an unparalleled evocative trip reminiscent of school snacks; while both the high and ultra-soft Focaccia and the classic Roman pan pizza showcase the technical background of the fantastic pizza maker/baker Alessandro Pescosolido: a mix so balanced between a crispy/flaky base and a silky/stringy bite that is addictive. To immerse ourselves in the selected dairy and pork architectures of Gabrini, we hang on to the oratory art of a star performer at the counter like Alfredo Colangelo (head manager). He can eloquently present to you with an hypnotic dialectic “life, death, and miracles” of each product or producer present in this place, as well as offering precise drink pairings from the cellar (notable the wine list of local and foreign gems, but also on the side of natural wines, craft beers, and spirits overseen by Leonardo Di Vincenzo). Colangelo unleashes a combo from the various departments that summarize the multifaceted/multifunctional spirit that animates this space: the just baked pizza wafer is garnished with thinly sliced Parma ham; while Caterina Maceroni’s fabulous stracchino cheese (from Ceprano) complements the topping of the Pizza with puff pastry and rosemary potatoes in harmony with a perfect Americano Cocktail from barlady Letizia La Sala.
Breakfast, lunch, dinner non-stop
The extraordinary essence of the Gabrini format is evident not only in a single moment but also, with an amplified effect, in the evolution of its experience throughout the different times of day. In the morning, the talented pastry chef Fabiana Velli creates an abundance of sweet leavened goods, sliced cakes, babka, maritozzi, and crostatas using only top-quality ingredients, such as sourdough bread and self-produced organic flours alternated with two “wild cards” from trusted master bakers like Forno Marè Prati and Triticum Panificio. For lunch, in addition to the mentioned pizzas, a variety of fried foods are served, along with daily pasta specials, handmade porchetta, rotisserie meats, veal tonnato turbans, lasagnas, colorful salads, and fish dishes that feature the daily catch from Anzio or Fiumicino. The evening aperitif smoothly transitions into the dining chapter with some express tastings overseen by Moroni (the addictive fried “Gamberi gobbeti” with citrusy mayonnaise) before delving into a distinct dinner experience that seamlessly integrates into the preceding culinary journey. This seamless sequence of consumption, dishes, and gastronomic rituals has been skillfully orchestrated alongside the gradual transformation of the venue: during the day, functional setups with shelves, countertops, and tailor-made seating accommodate around 15 diners, while in the evening, some tables disappear, and convivial spots seamlessly adapt to the shifting lights and atmospheres that guide patrons towards a tranquil evening intimacy. In the dining area, the lively finesse of Alexandra Tagliaferri and the expertise of sommelier Cecilia Mace enhance a service that leaves no guest dissatisfied. An ongoing highlight is the chef’s table for a maximum of four guests situated in the heart of the kitchen, providing an immersive overview of the identity core crafted by Marco and his team.
Marco Moroni’s Cuisine
Indulging in front-pass (with a customizable music playlist for guests’ enjoyment), we can affirm that this phase of material and minimalist exaltation by the chef imbues a renewed sense of freedom and enthusiasm discernible in every bite from the start. The joyful Fried Pizzella (created in a no-waste perspective using excess dough from the pan) with natural mortadella, Parmigiano Reggiano, and Coratina “Torrerivera” olive oil; the electrifying and invigorating assembly of Beans, cooked wheat, sweetened onions, and raw vegetable brunoise; the penetrating bite of the grilled Focaccina with chicken liver pate, puntarelle, grape must, and persimmon chutney. The Roman-style tripe of octopus (tomato, pecorino, and mint) is a brilliant intuition that leverages the chewy texture of the cephalopod’s head to recreate the same texture as the popular offal. “I created it out of the need to not discard all those octopus cuts that are unusable in seafood salads. They fly off the shelves in Prati during lunch breaks,” Marco explains with a laugh. “This neighborhood and this establishment generate unimaginable inspirations starting from elementary consumption anecdotes.” A basic theorem, but one that does not leave the palate indifferent, as seen in the sumptuous duo of first courses featuring Tortellini from Pastificio Secondi with fresh cream (a delightful indulgence!) and a phenomenal Tagliolino with French butter, 24-month Parmigiano Reggiano, and leeks that highlights the essential clarity achieved by Moroni. The meal concludes with a remarkable exercise that unifies the identity of rotisserie and restaurant into a timeless whole. The free-range chicken from Az. Scudellaro, expertly roasted and glazed with a vegetable jus, served with butter-glazed vegetables (employing a skilled “natural” cooking technique in multiple stages for each vegetable type). After this tasting, you won’t desire any other rotisserie chicken besides this one.
We glide gently into the vanilla cream layer of the Éclairs and the Grandma’s Cake as a final reference to the cyclical connection with the pastry displayed at the counter since morning. An even sweeter conclusion – to examine the authenticity of the project – is to follow Moroni after dinner on an underground tour of the vast areas dedicated to warehouses, cells, and laboratories that amaze us with the monumental work (as well as the meticulously organized work) that Gabrini’s team is building from its very foundations. And to add another point to this prodigious gastronomic endeavor, Marco bids us farewell by illustrating a hypothetical future space that will focus on mixology: the “Point G” (Gabrini).
No false idea teasers, just genuine enjoyment in abundance, like every gesture put forth by this Ancient New Delicatessen.
