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Out and about in CPH
Cook_inc. picks on where to eat in Copenhagen
Out and about in CPH
9 minutes

Cradle of design, friend of bicycles, El Dorado of (new) cuisine. Whatever you are looking for, you will find it in Copenhagen. Amid picturesque canals, romantic views, brightly colored houses in shades of blue, yellow, and red intermingled with ultra-modern buildings, large windows inviting light that reveals meticulously designed interiors, young designers who have opened their ateliers in every corner, and cozy eateries everywhere, Copenhagen seems like the closest thing to an ideal city. It presents itself without excess, without ostentation, with reassuring modesty and discretion; it manages to leave an indelible mark on visitors’ hearts with elegant and polite ease.

It is an open-air architectural gallery; with undeniable taste, creativity, and rigor, the streets experiment with a fascinating balance between nostalgia for tradition and the desire to embrace the modern. It is precisely in this uniqueness, in having the same passion for the past and the future, that one finds the full meaning of the title of World Capital of Architecture conferred to Copenhagen for the period 2023-2025.

Beyond aesthetics and lifestyle, the hygge life stands out – a sense of warmth, comfort, hospitality, and well-being encapsulated in a single word – untranslatable into Italian – the art of enjoying the little things and connections with others in complete serenity. The culinary scene is unparalleled, especially thanks to the powerful aura of Noma, which put Copenhagen, and all of Nordic cuisine, on the gastronomic map, making it an essential destination twenty years ago. This energy has led to the development of numerous other projects intersecting fresh new concepts with significant cultural ties, propelling the city into a continuous and increasingly vibrant evolution.

Well, there’s Copenhagen… and then there’s everything else, for any respectable foodie. From world-famous Nordic restaurants, to bakeries, to casual eateries with Asian and South American influences, to natural wine bars, there are plenty of new ideas bringing fresh, diverse, and stimulating energies to the city, each with their own recognizable identity. We’ve visited a few (and fallen in love with them).

And here we leave you with a piece of advice: 5 days in Copenhagen are not enough.

Restaurant Lola


In an iconic corner of the city near the water, in the Christianshavn district, you will find the restaurant Lola in a small 300-year-old restored mill, the Lille Mølle. Since 2019, it has been the “home” of Kamilla Seidler, a Danish chef with a globetrotter past that earned her the title of Latin America’s Best Female Chef in 2016. Kamilla’s travels and the multicultural influences of her team are what shape the new flavors of Lola, prepared using Danish products from small independent producers. An explosion of flavors and colors from Latin America, India, and Southeast Asia in a blend of unique dishes. Pampered by Renata Zalles, a Bolivian sous chef known as the “Thai queen” of the restaurant, we have tasted lamb bulgur Haleem, aji amarillo Ceviche, green curry pork Tacos, and we will definitely return for a lunch based on Smørrebrød.

Contributing to the uniqueness of the city’s gastronomic scene with these dishes is only part of Kamilla’s mission, as she deeply cares about the social impact of Lola. Hers is a project of work inclusion and training aimed at people living on the margins of society, helping them participate in cooking courses to train not only culinary techniques but also life skills, assisting them in building relationships and integrating into society. Furthermore, Lola aims to be (and is) an informal and accessible place for everyone, without dress codes or set menus, where one can come in for a dish and a glass of wine or spend a long evening with friends. The important thing is to have fun and travel, eating tastefully.

Omegn & Venner


It’s not a restaurant, it’s not a wine bar, and it’s not a supermarket. But it is the favorite lunch spot of many industry insiders who, so as not to risk losing its essence, declare it only by word of mouth and only on the trust of those who listen to the advice. Located inside Torvehallerne market, this small urban emporium is home to many small, absolutely Danish niche products that you won’t find anywhere else.

Credits: Ane Cecilie Krogh Keldsen

Omegn & Venner (don’t ask us how to pronounce it, in five days we haven’t even come close to the phonetics of the name) means “surroundings and friends” in Danish; in this literal translation lies the essence of this small magical treasure trove. Here, you eat what is sold and sell what is eaten. Local products – charcuterie, cheeses, bread… – can be purchased directly at the counter or tasted in the microbar/kitchen space transformed into dishes full of flavor with a contemporary verve that captivates like the Cod on bean cassoulet, the Paté en croute, and the Cuttlefish and kale in XO sauce.

Place
Europe/Denmark/Copenhagen
Omegn & Venner
Credits: Ane Cecilie Krogh Keldsen

Goldfinch


Nostalgic Cantonese cuisine in the heart of Copenhagen reads the Instagram bio of this fairly new restaurant on the capital’s scene (opened about a year ago) in an inner courtyard of Kongens Nytorv, the city’s largest square. What one cannot imagine is how surprising Cantonese cuisine can be when created by the hands of an Australian chef, Will Smith (former head chef of Geranium).

Goldfinch is nothing but the incarnation of his lifelong dream because Chinese cuisine has always been his passion, growing up with that food since he was a child. Despite his fine dining background, Smith wanted an informal atmosphere for Goldfinch, recreating a small urban oasis in the interiors – relaxed and accessible, both in the ambiance and gastronomic offerings. With a menu boasting generous portions of easily readable food that surprises with its small perfections, it’s easy to share dishes and make this place a focal point for families and gatherings with friends to try a greater number of dishes and be captivated by the Nordic elegance translated into a dynamic range of high-quality Chinese dishes. Don’t expect a fusion of new Nordic and Cantonese cuisine: Smith wants the food to be authentic, comforting. It’s more of a mix of dishes that can be found on Chinese household tables, alongside more modern dishes in a Hong Kong diner style, like the French toast for dessert. We were literally blown away by the Dan dan noodles with pork wrapped in a creamy sesame sauce that deserves a standing ovation.

Place
Goldfinch

Bæst


The best pizza in Copenhagen? Bæst! At least that’s what’s officialized by the 50 Top Pizza ranking, which positions this pizzeria as the second best in Europe. Indeed, Bæst is the realm of great Italian product by Christian Puglisi. In the super trendy neighborhood of Norrebrø, this establishment, known to most for its pizzeria section, plays the role of trattoria, cocktail bar, and wine bar with its unique hybrid dining model. It is much more than all that; at Bæst, they produce, right on site, the charcuterie and cheeses that are found on the pizzas and in all the dishes. The mission, whether it’s pizza or other dishes, is to do everything possible to make the ingredients (artisanal and positively impactful) shine, blending Italian tradition with Danish innovation. Bæst is certified as 60-90% organic, meaning that most of the raw materials they work with are produced organically.

Place
Europe/Denmark/Copenhagen
Bæst

Pompette


Half wine bar, half enoteca with small tapas to share: Pompette, in the aforementioned trendy neighborhood of Norrebrø, is the go-to place for natural wine. A pioneer in sulfite-free wines paired with tasty snacks, it continues to be a favorite wine bar for many, as well as a decidedly fashionable spot that has inspired many others. Inside, it’s as small as it is cozy, a bit underground, a bit Parisian vibes, with lit candles and bare walls. You choose your wine in a small room – with a nice selection – grab your bottle and take it to your table. Alternatively, you can opt for the by-the-glass option. Ordering bread, cheese, rillettes… you’ll find yourself coming for the wine and staying for the food. Just like all wine bars that hit you straight in the heart.

Place
Europe/Denmark/Copenhagen
Pompette

Hart Bageri


A viennoiserie/bakery not to be missed: Hart Bageri – in one of its new locations, at Reffen – the bakery-patisserie of Richard Hart and René Redzepi with great success and continuous expansion, multiplying in every district. Here you can find the classics of French pastry alternating with those of Danish pastry: from croissants to pain au chocolat, from cardamom croissants to spandauer, from tebirkes and teboller to the citrus cinnamon snail. For breakfast, you can enjoy various buns with butter and/or ham or chocolate, and for lunch, the savory selection includes magical grilled kimcheese sandwiches, savory croissants, and the unmissable chive feta scones.

Place
Europe/Denmark/Copenhagen
Hart Bageri

Noma


We visited Noma for an unforgettable experience of one of the last menus of the Game & Forest season, before Noma 2.0 completes its days to give birth to the eagerly awaited Noma 3.0. To describe that menu would require more than a book because beyond the incredible dishes and the emotions they evoke, what needs to be told in detail is the Noma Project, a result of extensive research in the Lab and Test kitchen, characterized by collaboration, intelligence, and ever-new revolutionary visions, light-years ahead of the gastronomic world we live in today. Instead, we refer you to a touching open letter to René and Noma, written by Lydia Itoi, who has had the fortune to experience many of its versions.

Place
Noma

The new New Nordic Cuisine today is made of awareness, attention, respect, and global vision. It embodies a new uniqueness that seeks out locally sourced, clean, and fair products, personalizing them with identity, style, and influences.

Copenhagen is always a good idea, it’s electrifying and constantly evolving.


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