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Kai Ho

2.00€

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Category: pdf ita Tags: cook_inc. 20, kai ho, taipei, Taïrroir
  • Description

Cook_inc. 20

Taïrroir – chef Kai Ho

  • Testo di Chihiro Masui
  • Foto di Richard Haughton

Questa sera sono al Taïrroir, ristorante nel quartiere di Zhongshan a Taipei, capitale della Repubblica di Cina o, più semplicemente, Taiwan*. Al sesto piano di un edificio che ospita anche il RyuGin Taipei, proprio a fianco del Raw di André Chiang. Il nome – contrazione di “Taiwan” e “terroir” – suona come una battuta. Lo stile del locale è moderno, metallico, luminoso, ovattato, chic. Mi trovo a 10.000 km da casa a Parigi, ed è la prima volta che vengo a Taiwan. Me lo dicevano tutti: “Vedrai, lo street food a Taiwan è eccezionale. Ma la cucina gastronomica, insomma…”. Niente di più falso.

Fuori, l’aria tropicale è calda e appiccicosa, ma qui ho quasi freddo. Il soffio fresco del climatizzatore fa condensare l’umidità che scorre lungo le vetrate. Vellutata d’orzo, tartufo nero di Périgord, brioche di foglia di senape. Un giovanissimo quanto discreto cameriere adagia sulla spessa tovaglia immacolata il primo assaggio della serata, una vellutata accompagnata da una piccola sfoglia. Benvenuti in Asia, dove la zuppa va bevuta (e non mangiata) prima, durante, dopo, a qualunque ora e quanto più calda possibile. Reidrata il corpo, lo rinfresca o lo riscalda, a seconda degli ingredienti. È cremosa, con delle striature..

(Scarica il PDF per continuare a leggere)

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