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ANATOMY OF A MIXED DEEP-FRY
Words by Guido Barosio
Photos by Bob Noto
The beginning is classic, or from the point of view of the Piedmontese, ancestral. It brings to mind a fritto misto, a mixed deep-fry, a traditional and enchanting kind of cooking that is centuries old. It was prepared in times gone by with strutto (pork fat) and was originally a way of using the poorest cuts that could not be conserved after the pig was butchered.
Scabin is like a crooner of American ballads, a star who has experimented with all styles and who has finally recorded an album for himself and others. A food crooner, Davide in his own unmistakeable way uses knowl- edge and flavours that are in his blood, in his soul and in his DNA.
The ritual, because it’s all about rituals (with only three performances), begins on Sun- day. It starts at 5pm like a kind of merenda sinoira (which literally means dinner-snack), a tradition of old-fashioned Piedmontese neighbourhoods.