{"id":279475,"date":"2026-02-26T22:11:00","date_gmt":"2026-02-26T21:11:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/cookinc.it\/?p=279475"},"modified":"2026-02-26T22:11:00","modified_gmt":"2026-02-26T21:11:00","slug":"pordenone-through-womens-eyes","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/cookinc.it\/en\/2026\/02\/26\/pordenone-through-womens-eyes\/","title":{"rendered":"Pordenone through women\u2019s eyes"},"content":{"rendered":"\n\n\n

Federica Manzon, a native of Pordenone and winner of the 2024 Premio Campiello with Alma<\/em>, writes:<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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\u201cIt is to her that her father entrusts the important conversations, the ones about freedom or borders, convinced that girls are better equipped to navigate life, and that it falls to them to steer the world.”<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Alma (Feltrinelli, 2024)<\/p>\n<\/blockquote>\n\n\n\n

Pordenone<\/strong> is a city to be discovered. Portus Naonis<\/em>, its ancient name, means \u201cport on the Noncello\u201d, the river that runs through it and once played a crucial role in its commercial and industrial development. Known as the Manchester of Italy, the city grew around workshops, cotton mills, and paper factories, later becoming home to major industries \u2013 Zanussi above all \u2013 and achieving numerous entrepreneurial milestones largely unknown to the rest of the country.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

And yet, Pordenone is far more than its industrious and enterprising industrial fabric. Beautiful, cultured, lively yet understated, and set apart from the main tourist routes, it reveals a quietly restless spirit, with an unexpected vitality in its artistic, musical, and literary scenes.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Corso Vittorio Emanuele II, sinuous and undulating, cuts through the historic centre. More than a heart, it feels like an artery \u2013 reminding you that this is not a place for standing still, for idle contemplation or passing chatter, but one defined by constant movement. It forms a striking backdrop: half a kilometre of uninterrupted arcades, unfolding in a rhythm of pointed and lowered arches, medieval mullioned windows, Baroque oculi, and the frescoes that earned the city the name Urbs Picta<\/em>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

It was here that Giovanni Antonio de\u2019 Sacchis<\/strong>, known as “Il Pordenone”, was born, the celebrated Renaissance painter whose masterpieces can still be admired at the Civic Art Museum<\/strong>, along the very same street that shapes our walk.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Pordenone surprises with the energy it emanates, and an extraordinarily intense cultural vitality<\/mark>: here is a lineup of the first Magnum photographer exhibit, Inge Morath. Just ahead, the poster for La scena delle donne<\/em>, one of the first in Italy to highlight female theatrical creativity, with a specific exhibition. I can imagine when the city turns completely yellow for Pordenonelegge<\/em>, an all-encompassing book festival that generates euphoria. The Dedica Festival<\/em> is more selective, an international event dedicated to a single writer, including many Nobel laureates in literature. I would also like to join the group of people who come from all over the world for the Pordenone Silent Film Festival<\/em>, dedicated to silent cinema. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

For those who have a passion for cinema, they can enjoy the short films at the FMK International Short Film Festival<\/em> or watch documentaries at the Pordenone Docs Fest<\/em>. A must-visit is the Comic Palace, a temple of comic exhibitions by the greatest comic book artists, followed by participation in the Pordenone Comics<\/em> event. And music? The Pordenone Blues Festival<\/em> and the Segovia Guitar Week<\/em> are unmissable. Pordenone is truly surprising! And it is well-deserving of being named the Italian Capital of Culture for 2027<\/strong>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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The director of Pordenonelegge<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Michela Zin<\/strong>, with her intellectual glasses and a smile of rare empathy, welcomes us into her office as the director of Pordenonelegge<\/strong><\/em>, surrounded by the colourful posters of the book festival, with the strictly yellow-and-black shoppers (the institutional colours).<\/p>\n\n\n\n

She has gray hair, makes no effort to hide it, and looks into your soul as her eyes light up telling the story from the beginning. Once upon a time in 2000, it began with twenty meetings over three days. Let’s fly on the wings of books and look down on Pordenone during the festival: the whole city dresses in yellow, for five days it vibrates with energy and enthusiasm that lights up the stars. Books save you, take you to different worlds, open the doors of imagination, make you travel around the world, inspire the mind and soul. Here there are even angels, the boys with yellow t-shirts with wings who are an open book, volunteers who help the elderly, the disabled, and oversee the places to help the participants. As always, the appointment is the third Wednesday of September for five days.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The director describes a record-breaking 2025: the city hosted 400 meetings, 670 authors, 56 national premieres with 160,000 attendees, in a town of 52,000 residents with 22,000 books sold! Zin admits that no one could have imagined the dream would become so grand, lived by Pordenone with total participation. Authors are surprised by the human warmth and engagement of the people, in a joyful and culturally vibrant atmosphere. The director received the honor of “Cavaliere al Merito della Repubblica Italiana” in 2025 for the significant contribution to the promotion of the territory through the organization of the festival “Pordenonelegge”.<\/mark><\/p>\n\n\n\n

The original goals have been achieved: to make Pordenone known and bring stimuli of knowledge to the city through the interaction with authors and prominent national and international figures. For the young people whom Zin cares deeply about, she dedicates three mornings out of the five days of the festival, in parallel with the main event. Michela Zin smiles satisfied. Pordenonelegge<\/em> has proven to be an excellence: it would be a successful case history to study in its multiple facets.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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The Librarian Guardian of the Community<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Italo Calvino<\/strong> in his Invisible Cities<\/em> suggests that cities are not only physical spaces, but also projections of human desires, memories, fears, and emotions. Pordenone did not stand still when one of its bookshops, operating for 31 years on one of its streets, closed its doors. A whisper ran from house to house: the memory of Cosetta Gariup<\/strong>, her smile, and her always fitting and affectionate words opened a new door in the city’s heart.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Cosetta welcomes us still in disbelief: it seemed like everything was over, and yet, at sixty-four years old, she can still stand behind the counter to welcome and advise customers. The name her father chose for her, inspired by Victor Hugo’s “Les Mis\u00e9rables,” foretold a life intertwined with books. As a customer enters the new bookstore opened a few months ago on the main street, Corso Vittorio Emanuele II, she is warmly greeted by Cosetta with genuine warmth, while her husband Cornelio Giavedoni<\/strong> smiles from behind the computer. In that moment, I understood that this bookstore is not just made of shelves, but it is a place where everything seems to magically stop to embrace a human encounter.<\/mark> The bookseller is there, with all her baggage of professional and human experiences to create relationships, to weave exchanges of thought with practical yet delicate words and gestures, and to give life to a community that takes care of each other.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Cosetta has built true friendships with her customers, whom she refers to as her family. It was not enough for her to just recommend a book, order it if it was not available, and even deliver it to their homes in other cities if they were unable to come back. That seed of culture, of altruism, the light she managed to ignite in these encounters, has remained within the people she has known. Today, still moved, she recounts the surprising solidarity she received when, against her will, she had to leave the bookstore on Via Mazzini. It was one of her customers who found the new location where now, with touching empathy, Cosetta tells us her story. A life in which she has met Giulio Einaudi<\/strong>, many famous writers from the Dedica festival, thanks to a twenty-year collaboration with director Claudio Cattaruzza<\/strong>, and other Einaudi writers with whom she went to schools to promote reading and books. Cosetta recounts many human connections that could end up in the pages of a book. Who knows?<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Chocolate and its muse<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n

I am glued to the display case adorned with golden tickets, those of the famous movie Willy Wonka and the Chocolate Factory<\/em>. I anticipate the meeting with the guide who will take us to discover the historic delicacies of Peratoner<\/strong>, founded in 1873, while in my mind the colourful Oompa Loompas<\/em>, the imaginary creatures from the movie, involved in chocolate production, appear.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Anna Friolo<\/strong> appears, fascinating in her feminine beauty. We then discover that she was Miss Trieste 1982, a model, and moved in the nineties \u2013 being from Trieste \u2013 to Pordenone to manage the Max Mara store. She meets Giuseppe Faggiotto<\/strong>, a talented master chocolatier, and together, the artist and the businesswoman, united by a magical alchemy, build the new Peratoner. Faggiotto, originally from San Don\u00e0 del Piave<\/strong> in Venice, aims to save this piece of the city’s history that was on the verge of disappearing. Anna, already known and beloved in the city, becomes the face of Peratoner, and like the beautiful Vianne in Chocolat, she attracts lovers of beauty and goodness to this place of sensory indulgence.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

As I admire the Viennese-style counter with countless types of pralines and pastries, I imagine the fountain that, for decades, used to continuously pour thirty-five kilograms of dark chocolate in the center of the shop. The uniqueness of the piece, replicated only in five copies worldwide, a masterpiece of delicious sensuality, also led to the impossibility of repair when, unfortunately, it malfunctioned.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Walking into the packed central hall, with armchairs and sofas covered in burgundy leather and marble tables, some dating back to 1880, one can observe the joyful faces of the guests. For Anna and her husband, together for over thirty years and always ready for new challenges, what matters most is making the people who frequent Peratoner happy, providing them with the best, both in terms of raw materials, research (the laboratory in the adjacent gallery is a forge of innovation), creativity, and hospitality. Anna leads us behind a screen: on the walls are framed photographs of the famous Peratoner lounge, of which I had read so much. For ten years, Anna and Giuseppe, in a unique place, starting from the luxurious furnishings, hosted important guests and fostered connections, while enjoying chocolates. Unfortunately, the fire in the once adjacent laboratory put an end to the initiative. Even Joanne Harris<\/strong>, the author of Chocolat<\/em>, was a guest, and who knows if she drew inspiration from this magical lounge for her book.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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The Country Administrator<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

It is drizzling when we arrive in Vivaro<\/strong>, about twenty minutes by car from Pordenone. Yet, the contagious energy of Chiara Trevisanutto<\/strong>, managing director of the country resort Gelindo dei Magredi,<\/strong> is capable of making the sun shine. We start the visit with the area dedicated to selling vegetables, have a coffee at the bar while looking at the tavern, in the same room. Then Chiara shows us the large hall for parties with a fireplace, the “Court of the Winds,” and a smaller room, the “Gourmet’s Dining Room.” The chefs are the siblings Elena<\/strong> and Tiziano<\/strong>, cousins of Chiara<\/strong>. The cuisine is traditional, pasta is homemade, and here the motto “from the land to the table” reigns. All around, in fact, there are fifteen hectares dedicated to vegetable gardens (both outdoors and in greenhouses), cereals, pastures, forage, vineyards, orchards, and even raising pigs, poultry, and cattle.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

At the end of the sixties, Gelindo and Attilia’s grandparents had fields and raised livestock and were already thinking about a farm stay. Today, the property has twenty-three rooms and also offers various agritourism accommodations, with a swimming pool, a camping area for twenty-five campers. The management is family-run, with nine people taking care of this estate, which is a continuous discovery. Chiara takes us to see the stone mill where they process corn for polenta, the ornamental pond with geese, the barrel-shaped cottage with a double bedroom, the stables with forty horses and some ponies, and the covered riding arena (affiliated with the FISE \u2013 Italian Equestrian Sports Federation) with the opportunity to learn from basic riding to competitive stages. And then there is the educational farm, which attracts four thousand visitors annually.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Chiara took over the reins from her father Piero five years ago, around the age of forty, in a very natural generational transition, especially because she is supported by her whole family. The estate is a participatory place, where meetings, tastings, treasure hunts, carriage rides, fox hunting, equestrian contests, educational grape harvesting, visits to the peasant museum are organized… Chiara is tireless, already thinking of building a spa next year. In this microcosm immersed in greenery, at the confluence of the Cellina and Meduna rivers, Chiara made us feel the connection with nature and the land. As dynamic as she is, she also thinks of entertaining her guests through various activities (she has created a mosaic workshop, a cooking class, jam and preserves making). With her, it is impossible to get bored, and consequently, Gelindo dei Magredi will always be a lively and dynamic venture.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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The wine lover between hearts and values<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

The apostle Simon, in the Byzantine Eastern tradition, seems to have been identified as the groom at the wedding in Cana, where Jesus turned water into wine. The San Simone<\/strong> agricultural company, red on the outside and embraced by the green of the vineyards, is named as such to maintain the thread of traditions linked to a lived experience. In fact, over 110 years ago, the beginning of the union of the Brisotto family with wine started in Prata, a small town with a church dedicated to Saints Simon and Jude.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Now we are in Porcia,<\/strong> welcomed by Anna Brisotto<\/strong> at the headquarters that has borne the name of the saint of that village church where everything began for over thirty years. Anna has a sweet smile, delicate manners, and introspective speech. It seems like she has been tempered by deep sorrows transformed into an even larger and more open heart towards others. A solicitude that, besides cultivating vineyards and producing wine, leads her to forge human relationships. Not by chance, she was the president of the Doc Friuli Grave consortium (the first woman to hold this position) because she feels a strong commitment to the region and wishes to do her part. She also supports Pordenonelegge as a partner, producing special editions of wines in custom yellow bottles featuring the festival’s manifesto on the label, different every year but always fun.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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I am struck by what I read on a panel, next to the colorful hearts drawn by the artist Antonio Visentin<\/strong>:<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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“Drink the wines of the heart, the wines tied to beautiful memories and to the lovely people encountered in our lives. A glass of wine thus becomes a journey to visited places, in memory, among faces, stories, and encounters.”<\/p>\n<\/blockquote>\n\n\n\n

It is not signed, but the feeling is that it’s what Anna thinks. She thought of becoming a lawyer, but the premature passing of her father first, and then her mother due to illness, brought her back home, with her siblings Chiara and Antonio, to continue the family legacy naturally. Listening to Anna’s voice telling her story, which is the story of family ties that have accompanied four generations for over a hundred years in making wine in the best way they knew, reminds me of Luis Sepulveda. “Words are like wine: they need breath and time for the velvet of the voice to reveal their definitive flavor.” For Anna, it is essential that their wine conveys the mark of care and above all, of a value that connects the territory’s history with present work, a testament to a story of love and dedication. This time we are not talking about hectares or the number of bottles or many other technical aspects, but we toast to beauty and life with a glass of Sugano 2022, Cabernet Franc in purity, an expressive example, strongly linked to this land.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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The protector of ancient vines<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n

From Pordenone, we drive about forty kilometers to Valeriano<\/strong>, near the medieval village of Spilimbergo. Bright eyes, quick speech, strong character: Alberta Bulfon<\/strong> shakes my hand and escorts me to the long tasting table. Standing, she observes me and begins her story.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Emilio Bulfon<\/strong>, the father, had already seen beyond in the 1960s. He discovered in the foothills of Western Friuli<\/strong>, near the Tagliamento River<\/strong>, forgotten grape varieties, neglected, with no future. At the time, there was not much attention towards native grapevines, but for Bulfon, rediscovering and bringing them back to life became a mission. In 1972, he acquired a plot of land in Valeriano and over time, he selected and replanted the rediscovered cultivars, with the collaboration of expert ampelographers from the Experimental Institute of Conegliano. Sciaglin, Forgiarin, and Piculit Neri were registered in the national catalog of grape varieties and obtained the Protected Geographical Indication. Bulfon did not stop his research and found almost extinct varieties in other areas of Friuli as well: Cjanorie, Cividin, Cordenossa, and Fum\u00e0t. These are Friulian dialect names that Bulfon wanted to preserve for the sake of local memory.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Alberta has always assisted her father, becoming the spokesperson for the unique historical viticulture heritage that lives only here. After studying Cultural Heritage Conservation, with at least seventy publications to her credit, she becomes the bridge between her father’s work and the territory. She communicates the historical and cultural aspects of the region, in addition to those related to viticulture, creating a well-contextualized narrative: the aim is to develop relationships and human connections. She loves the vineyard, is in charge of the educational farm and hospitality, and is deeply involved in passing on the value of this ampelographic and oenological treasure.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

While pouring the wines, I am struck by the labels: they are stylized, taken from a fresco of the Last Supper in a nearby church, Santa Maria dei Battuti. A detail that makes these wines so rare and precious immediately recognizable, speaking of an ancient yet alive and vibrant story. Alberta explains the wines, and as I taste them, I get lost in scents and flavors never experienced before: an extraordinary experience. Alberta safeguards a precious heritage that brings ancient memories back to life. After drinking those wines, you will not feel like the same person anymore.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Pordenone, in its singular dimension, between town and city, is a place where stories of female innovation and humanity, of change and culture, come together.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

You can feel a breath of fresh air, looking at the feet of the mountains, so close that it seems you can touch them with the tips of your fingers. A place inhabited by down-to-earth people, lovers of culture and beauty, endowed with sensitivity and intuition. Pordenone, now that we have embraced you, it is difficult to let you go.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Federica Manzon, a native of Pordenone and winner of the 2024 Premio Campiello with Alma, writes: \u201cIt is to her that her father entrusts the important conversations, the ones about freedom or borders, convinced that girls are better equipped to navigate life, and that it falls to them to steer the world.” Alma (Feltrinelli, 2024) […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":118,"featured_media":268974,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"serif-full-gradient","format":"standard","meta":{"_seopress_titles_title":"","_seopress_titles_desc":"Discover Pordenone: art, literature, and music in an active and vibrant city, alive with festivals and cultural 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