{"id":216932,"date":"2025-11-07T05:08:00","date_gmt":"2025-11-07T04:08:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/cookinc.it\/?p=216932"},"modified":"2025-12-01T05:46:08","modified_gmt":"2025-12-01T04:46:08","slug":"like-a-rolling-stone","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/cookinc.it\/en\/2025\/11\/07\/like-a-rolling-stone\/","title":{"rendered":"Like a Rolling Stone"},"content":{"rendered":"\n\n\n<p class=\"has-text-align-right wp-block-paragraph\">\u201cThe osteria is the finest refuge from the all-encompassing pneumatic hammering of today\u2019s pseudo-social, media-driven disintegration and counterfeit togetherness.\u201d<br>Prof. Jean-Baptiste-Cyrille de la Mondeuse-Musigny &#8211; EHESS \/ <br>\u00c9cole des Hautes \u00c9tudes en Sciences Sociales, Paris<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\"><strong><strong>I. HOW TO STEAL AN OSTERIA<\/strong><\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">They say,&nbsp;<br><em><strong>\u201cOpportunity makes the thief.\u201d<\/strong><\/em><br>No.<br>Let\u2019s get rid of that clich\u00e9 at once: a true thief \u2013 a professional \u2013 <em>must<\/em>&nbsp;invent occasions, one after another. Otherwise, he puts at risk the very thing that sustains him: his reputation, the credibility of his ancient Craft.<br><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Take our pickpocket here. After parking his car, he slung his laptop backpack over his shoulder, unaware that the first thing one notices upon stepping inside this establishment is a sign screaming in block letters:&nbsp;<mark style=\"background-color:#A4A4A4\" class=\"has-inline-color\">\u201cDO NOT LEAVE VALUABLES UNATTENDED IN YOUR VEHICLE.\u201d<\/mark><br>Irony, case in point.<br><br>It\u2019s the&nbsp;<em>last<\/em>&nbsp;place where one would expect such a warning: a roadside refuge along State Highway 755, just before the road launches itself across the eight iron spans \u2013 early 20th century \u2013 stretching over the Great River.<br>This is the Ponte della Gerola, between the Lomellina and the Oltrep\u00f2.<br><br>\u201cVampire in the vineyard\u201d and \u201cpilferer in the kitchen,\u201d as Vinicio Capossela would put it, this weasel of a man has just laid eyes on the&nbsp;<em>right kind<\/em>&nbsp;of Osteria.<br><br>A voice echoes in his head:<br><em><mark style=\"background-color:#A4A4A4\" class=\"has-inline-color\">\u201cThe Osteria\u2026 is you.\u201d<\/mark><\/em><br>No \u2013 <mark style=\"background-color:#A4A4A4\" class=\"has-inline-color\"><em>\u201cis you<\/em>,\u201d<\/mark> in that guttural, Northern Italian second person.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\"><br>To make the impression all the more vivid \u2013 that of someone who looks more like a barnyard thief than a regular patron (meaning: not one of the workers from the colossal ENI refinery in Sannazzaro, nor a technician on lunch break from the sprawling agrochemical plant in Mezzana Bigli, nor even a traveling salesman) \u2013 he silently recites this small prayer of gratitude to the God of Fortunate Tables, intentionally choosing that Northern pronoun.<br>A way of underlining, to himself, the sensation of being a fish out of water.<br>A freshwater fish, certainly \u2013 though here, without doubt, polluted.<br><br>Or, at most, he is simply someone who has ended up exactly where he was meant to end up.<br>Because there are still those who wander like this, for the sake of wandering.<br>Fugitives, escapees, deserters from the small prisons of the everyday.<br><br><mark style=\"background-color:#A4A4A4\" class=\"has-inline-color\"><em>\u201cI think we\u2019re in the right place,\u201d<\/em>\u00a0<\/mark>he tells himself, this odd, makeshift disciple of\u00a0<em>Papillon.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\t\t<div class=\"paywall-block alignfull\">\r\n\t\t\t<div class=\"surface-container-grayscale-low padding-row-xl padding-col-m\">\r\n\t\t\t\t<div class=\"main-column\" id=\"customer_login\">\r\n\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"body-big-condensed margin-bottom-s\">Want to keep reading this article?<br>Log in or subscribe.<\/div>\r\n\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"flex can-wrap\">\r\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"fill col-1-of-2 padding-l surface-object-grayscale-inverse\">\r\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<form class=\"woocommerce-form flex column space woocommerce-form-login login\" 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Join the fam!<\/div>\r\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\r\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<a href=\"https:\/\/cookinc.it\/en\/subscriptions\/\" title=\"Find out more\" class=\"self-start button medium bright\"><span class=\"label\">Find out more<\/span><\/a>\r\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\r\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\r\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\r\n\t\t\t<\/div>\r\n\t\t<\/div>\r\n\t","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>\u201cThe osteria is the finest refuge from the all-encompassing pneumatic hammering of today\u2019s pseudo-social, media-driven disintegration and counterfeit togetherness.\u201dProf. Jean-Baptiste-Cyrille de la Mondeuse-Musigny &#8211; EHESS \/ \u00c9cole des Hautes \u00c9tudes en Sciences Sociales, Paris I. HOW TO STEAL AN OSTERIA They say,&nbsp;\u201cOpportunity makes the thief.\u201dNo.Let\u2019s get rid of that clich\u00e9 at once: a true thief [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":3,"featured_media":215410,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"graphics-double-column","format":"standard","meta":{"_seopress_titles_title":"","_seopress_titles_desc":"","_seopress_robots_index":"","_seopress_robots_follow":"","_seopress_robots_imageindex":"","_seopress_robots_snippet":"","_seopress_robots_primary_cat":"","_seopress_robots_breadcrumbs":"","_seopress_robots_freeze_modified_date":"","_seopress_robots_custom_modified_date":"","_seopress_robots_canonical":"","_seopress_social_fb_title":"","_seopress_social_fb_desc":"","_seopress_social_fb_img":"","_seopress_social_fb_img_attachment_id":0,"_seopress_social_fb_img_width":0,"_seopress_social_fb_img_height":0,"_seopress_social_twitter_title":"","_seopress_social_twitter_desc":"","_seopress_social_twitter_img":"","_seopress_social_twitter_img_attachment_id":0,"_seopress_social_twitter_img_width":0,"_seopress_social_twitter_img_height":0,"_seopress_redirections_value":"","_seopress_redirections_enabled":"","_seopress_redirections_enabled_regex":"","_seopress_redirections_logged_status":"","_seopress_redirections_param":"","_seopress_redirections_type":0,"_seopress_analysis_target_kw":"","_seopress_news_disabled":"","_seopress_video_disabled":"","_seopress_video":[],"_seopress_pro_schemas_manual":[],"_seopress_pro_rich_snippets_disable_all":"","_seopress_pro_rich_snippets_disable":[],"_seopress_pro_schemas":[],"selected_color":"","palette":"{\"media_id\":215410,\"colors\":[[176,117,118],[231,218,218],[200,165,164],[212,180,188],[220,177,177]],\"selected\":\"rgb(176, 117, 118)\",\"gradients\":{\"a1\":[\"#fffbff\",\"#fff8f7\",\"#ffdad9\",\"#ffb3b4\",\"#fb8b8f\",\"#db7175\",\"#bb585d\",\"#7e2a30\",\"#510612\",\"#40000a\",\"#2c0005\"],\"a2\":[\"#fffbff\",\"#fff8f7\",\"#ffdad9\",\"#e6bdbc\",\"#c9a2a2\",\"#ad8888\",\"#916e6f\",\"#5d3f3f\",\"#381f1f\",\"#2c1516\",\"#200a0b\"],\"a3\":[\"#fffbff\",\"#fff8f3\",\"#ffddaf\",\"#e5c18d\",\"#c8a674\",\"#ac8b5c\",\"#907245\",\"#5b421a\",\"#362200\",\"#281800\",\"#1a0f00\"],\"n1\":[\"#fffbff\",\"#fff8f7\",\"#ece0df\",\"#d0c4c3\",\"#b4a9a8\",\"#998e8e\",\"#7f7574\",\"#4d4545\",\"#2b2424\",\"#201a1a\",\"#15100f\"],\"n2\":[\"#fffbff\",\"#fff8f7\",\"#f4dddd\",\"#d7c1c1\",\"#bba6a6\",\"#a08c8c\",\"#857373\",\"#524343\",\"#2f2323\",\"#251819\",\"#190e0e\"],\"error\":[\"#fffbff\",\"#fff8f7\",\"#ffdad6\",\"#ffb4ab\",\"#ff897d\",\"#ff5449\",\"#de3730\",\"#93000a\",\"#540003\",\"#410002\",\"#2d0001\"]}}","authors":"[{\"role\":\"Words by \",\"related\":[{\"postType\":\"collaborator\",\"postTypeLabel\":\"Contributor\",\"title\":\"Diego Sorba\",\"url\":\"https:\/\/cookinc.it\/en\/collaboratore\/diego-sorba\/\",\"ID\":153669,\"value\":153669,\"label\":\"Diego Sorba\",\"thumbnail\":false}],\"title\":\"\",\"unique_id\":\"NjY4NTA2Nzg2OTM1NTg4ODA=\"}]","magazine_id":"216369","footnotes":""},"categories":[1620],"tags":[1952,2281],"location":[],"class_list":["post-216932","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-essay","tag-osteria-2","tag-wine-bar"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/cookinc.it\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/216932","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/cookinc.it\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/cookinc.it\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/cookinc.it\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/3"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/cookinc.it\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=216932"}],"version-history":[{"count":12,"href":"https:\/\/cookinc.it\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/216932\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":225493,"href":"https:\/\/cookinc.it\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/216932\/revisions\/225493"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/cookinc.it\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/215410"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/cookinc.it\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=216932"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/cookinc.it\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=216932"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/cookinc.it\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=216932"},{"taxonomy":"location","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/cookinc.it\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/location?post=216932"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}