{"id":150853,"date":"2025-07-11T08:45:00","date_gmt":"2025-07-11T06:45:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/cookinc.it\/?p=150853"},"modified":"2025-09-10T10:15:01","modified_gmt":"2025-09-10T08:15:01","slug":"mind-the-gap","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/cookinc.it\/en\/2025\/07\/11\/mind-the-gap\/","title":{"rendered":"Mind the gap"},"content":{"rendered":"\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\"><sup data-fn=\"d1acac0a-63fb-4d89-9c10-bb601d4761e7\" class=\"fn\"><a href=\"#d1acac0a-63fb-4d89-9c10-bb601d4761e7\" id=\"d1acac0a-63fb-4d89-9c10-bb601d4761e7-link\">1<\/a><\/sup><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"is-style-default wp-block-paragraph\"><strong>The&nbsp;<em>250\/100<\/em>&nbsp;historical menu by Davide Scabin<\/strong>, currently featured at <strong>Carignano <\/strong>in <strong>Turin<\/strong>, has set in motion a long-contemplated project: the complete mapping of the chef\u2019s work. The following text traces its genesis and outlines the conceptual foundations of this initiative, which aims to capture \u2013 in a timeless, non-biographical form \u2013 the defining traits of his cuisine that have marked turning points in contemporary gastronomic thought.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\"><strong>Prologue<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n<blockquote class=\"wp-block-quote is-layout-flow wp-block-quote-is-layout-flow\">\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">\u201cWhat have you been doing all these years, Noodles?\u201d<br>\u201cI went to bed early.\u201d<\/p>\n<\/blockquote>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">In one of the most iconic sequences in the history of cinema, De Niro opens&nbsp;<em>Once Upon a Time in America<\/em>&nbsp;with this cryptic exchange.<br>The reference to the much-quoted yet seldom-read opening of Proust\u2019s&nbsp;<em>In Search of Lost Time<\/em>&nbsp;is inevitable:<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\"><em>Longtemps, je me suis couch\u00e9 de bonne heure.<\/em> In both cases, interpretations abound, and no single reading prevails over the others when it comes to the meaning behind the two protagonists\u2019 \u201cgoing to bed early.\u201d<br>A reflection on the past?<br>An awareness of a time that will never return?<br>An admission of a time that could have been, but never was?<br>Or, conversely, the serene anticipation of a time still waiting to unfold?<br>Why not instead a sense of inner peace for a time that has already expressed itself to the fullest&nbsp;\u2013&nbsp;so that one turns in early to luxuriate in that liminal space between wakefulness and sleep, where the recognition of the entire universe resides?<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">The brilliance of this expression lies precisely in its refusal to be definitive: it is essential to the work it introduces, yet it does not dictate how the viewer must experience it.<br>It conveys, without embellishment, the protagonist\u2019s position, but leaves the listener free to draw their own conclusion according to their own state of mind&nbsp;&nbsp;\u2013according to what they are seeking.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Its strength resides in the shifting nature of the audience: each time we rewatch&nbsp;<em>Once Upon a Time in America<\/em>, Noodles will always give the same answer; each time we reread&nbsp;<em>In Search of Lost Time<\/em>, the novel will always open with the same line.<br>But in watching again, in reading again,&nbsp;<em>we<\/em>&nbsp;will not be the same&nbsp;\u2013&nbsp;and the taste of that phrase will plunge us into our own personal gaze upon the past, and into whatever meaning retrospection holds at that precise moment in our lives.<\/p>\n\n\n\t\t<div class=\"paywall-block alignfull\">\r\n\t\t\t<div class=\"surface-container-grayscale-low padding-row-xl padding-col-m\">\r\n\t\t\t\t<div class=\"main-column\" id=\"customer_login\">\r\n\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"body-big-condensed margin-bottom-s\">Want to keep reading this article?<br>Log in or subscribe.<\/div>\r\n\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"flex can-wrap\">\r\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"fill col-1-of-2 padding-l surface-object-grayscale-inverse\">\r\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<form class=\"woocommerce-form flex column space woocommerce-form-login login\" method=\"post\">\r\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<div>\r\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"button-condensed margin-bottom-s\">Login<\/div>\r\n\r\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<p class=\"woocommerce-form-row woocommerce-form-row--wide form-row form-row-wide\">\r\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<label for=\"username\">Username or email address&nbsp;<span class=\"required\" aria-hidden=\"true\">*<\/span><span class=\"screen-reader-text\">Required<\/span><\/label>\r\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<input type=\"text\" class=\"woocommerce-Input woocommerce-Input--text input-text\" placeholder=\"username\" name=\"username\" id=\"username\" autocomplete=\"username\" value=\"\" required aria-required=\"true\" \/>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/p>\r\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<p class=\"woocommerce-form-row woocommerce-form-row--wide form-row form-row-wide\">\r\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<label for=\"password\">Password&nbsp;<span class=\"required\" aria-hidden=\"true\">*<\/span><span class=\"screen-reader-text\">Required<\/span><\/label>\r\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<input class=\"woocommerce-Input woocommerce-Input--text input-text\" type=\"password\" placeholder=\"password\" name=\"password\" id=\"password\" autocomplete=\"current-password\" required aria-required=\"true\" \/>\r\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/p>\r\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\r\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<p class=\"woocommerce-LostPassword lost_password margin-bottom-s\">\r\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<a class=\"label-small-sans margin-top-s text-on-grayscale-opacity-high\" href=\"https:\/\/cookinc.it\/en\/my-account\/lost-password\/\">Lost your password?<\/a>\r\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/p>\r\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\r\n \t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<input type=\"hidden\" name=\"redirect\" value=\"https:\/\/cookinc.it\/en\/2025\/07\/11\/mind-the-gap\/\" \/>\r\n\r\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<p class=\"form-row\">\r\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<label class=\"woocommerce-form__label woocommerce-form__label-for-checkbox woocommerce-form-login__rememberme\">\r\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<input class=\"woocommerce-form__input woocommerce-form__input-checkbox\" name=\"rememberme\" type=\"checkbox\" id=\"rememberme\" value=\"forever\" \/> <span class=\"label-small-sans\">Remember me<\/span>\r\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/label>\r\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<input type=\"hidden\" id=\"woocommerce-login-nonce\" name=\"woocommerce-login-nonce\" value=\"c7c339e237\" \/><input type=\"hidden\" name=\"_wp_http_referer\" value=\"\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/150853\" \/>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<button type=\"submit\" class=\"woocommerce-button button medium dim woocommerce-form-login__submit\" name=\"login\" value=\"Log in\"><span class=\"label\">Log in<\/span><\/button>\r\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/p>\r\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/form>\r\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\r\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\r\n\r\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"fill flex column gap-s space col-1-of-2 surface-container-grayscale-inverse text-on-grayscale-inverse padding-l\">\r\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"flex column gap-s\">\r\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"button-condensed\">Subscribe to Cook_inc.<\/div>\r\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"body-small-sans\">With a subscription, you\u2019ll get full access to Cook_inc. \u2014 from in-depth stories to exclusive content. Join the fam!<\/div>\r\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\r\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<a href=\"https:\/\/cookinc.it\/en\/subscriptions\/\" title=\"Find out more\" class=\"self-start button medium bright\"><span class=\"label\">Find out more<\/span><\/a>\r\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\r\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\r\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\r\n\t\t\t<\/div>\r\n\t\t<\/div>\r\n\t","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>The&nbsp;250\/100&nbsp;historical menu by Davide Scabin, currently featured at Carignano in Turin, has set in motion a long-contemplated project: the complete mapping of the chef\u2019s work. The following text traces its genesis and outlines the conceptual foundations of this initiative, which aims to capture \u2013 in a timeless, non-biographical form \u2013 the defining traits of his [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":3,"featured_media":138390,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"serif-full-gradient","format":"standard","meta":{"_seopress_titles_title":"Mind the gap: complete mapping of Davide Scabin's work","_seopress_titles_desc":"The\u00a0250\/100\u00a0historical menu by Davide Scabin, currently featured at Carignano in Turin, has set in motion a long-contemplated project: the complete mapping of the chef\u2019s work.","_seopress_robots_index":"","_seopress_robots_follow":"","_seopress_robots_imageindex":"","_seopress_robots_snippet":"","_seopress_robots_primary_cat":"","_seopress_robots_breadcrumbs":"","_seopress_robots_freeze_modified_date":"","_seopress_robots_custom_modified_date":"","_seopress_robots_canonical":"","_seopress_social_fb_title":"","_seopress_social_fb_desc":"","_seopress_social_fb_img":"","_seopress_social_fb_img_attachment_id":0,"_seopress_social_fb_img_width":0,"_seopress_social_fb_img_height":0,"_seopress_social_twitter_title":"","_seopress_social_twitter_desc":"","_seopress_social_twitter_img":"","_seopress_social_twitter_img_attachment_id":0,"_seopress_social_twitter_img_width":0,"_seopress_social_twitter_img_height":0,"_seopress_redirections_value":"","_seopress_redirections_enabled":"","_seopress_redirections_enabled_regex":"","_seopress_redirections_logged_status":"","_seopress_redirections_param":"","_seopress_redirections_type":0,"_seopress_analysis_target_kw":"","_seopress_news_disabled":"","_seopress_video_disabled":"","_seopress_video":[],"_seopress_pro_schemas_manual":[],"_seopress_pro_rich_snippets_disable_all":"","_seopress_pro_rich_snippets_disable":[],"_seopress_pro_schemas":[],"selected_color":"","palette":"{\"media_id\":138390,\"colors\":[[222,218,217],[95,104,115],[139,145,152],[195,97,139],[185,167,110]],\"selected\":\"rgb(222, 218, 217)\",\"gradients\":{\"a1\":[\"#fffbff\",\"#fff8f3\",\"#ffddb0\",\"#feba4b\",\"#df9f32\",\"#c18515\",\"#a16d00\",\"#614000\",\"#362200\",\"#291800\",\"#1b0e00\"],\"a2\":[\"#fffbff\",\"#fff8f3\",\"#fadebb\",\"#dcc3a1\",\"#c0a787\",\"#a48d6e\",\"#897457\",\"#56442a\",\"#32230c\",\"#261904\",\"#1b0f00\"],\"a3\":[\"#f8ffeb\",\"#eeffdc\",\"#d2eabd\",\"#b7cea2\",\"#9cb289\",\"#829770\",\"#687d58\",\"#394c2b\",\"#192a0d\",\"#0f2004\",\"#051500\"],\"n1\":[\"#fffbff\",\"#fff8f3\",\"#eae1d9\",\"#cec5bd\",\"#b2aaa2\",\"#978f88\",\"#7d766f\",\"#4b4640\",\"#292520\",\"#1f1b16\",\"#14100c\"],\"n2\":[\"#fffbff\",\"#fff8f3\",\"#efe0cf\",\"#d3c4b4\",\"#b6a99a\",\"#9b8f80\",\"#817567\",\"#4f4539\",\"#2c241a\",\"#221a10\",\"#161007\"],\"error\":[\"#fffbff\",\"#fff8f7\",\"#ffdad6\",\"#ffb4ab\",\"#ff897d\",\"#ff5449\",\"#de3730\",\"#93000a\",\"#540003\",\"#410002\",\"#2d0001\"]}}","authors":"[{\"role\":\"Words by\",\"related\":[{\"postType\":\"collaborator\",\"postTypeLabel\":\"Contributor\",\"title\":\"Serena Guidobaldi\",\"url\":\"https:\/\/cookinc.it\/en\/collaboratore\/serena-guidobaldi\/\",\"ID\":150855,\"value\":150855,\"label\":\"Serena Guidobaldi\",\"thumbnail\":false}],\"title\":\"\",\"unique_id\":\"MjExNzkzODExNDA5MzA3ODQw\"}]","magazine_id":"146861","footnotes":"[{\"content\":\"This title has been chosen because it allows for various metaphorical interpretations and at the same time it\u2019s the \u201ctypical\u201d London Underground announcement warning passengers to watch the space between the platform and the train.\",\"id\":\"d1acac0a-63fb-4d89-9c10-bb601d4761e7\"},{\"content\":\"Rome Metro Line C\u2019s T1 and T2 sections have been under construction for over 12 years, and are often cited as a symbol of complexity.\",\"id\":\"cb2e02db-08ec-43e8-8c41-e82b0e98e319\"},{\"content\":\"Pongo is an Italian brand of colored modeling clay (similar to Play-Doh), first produced in 1950. In Italy, the name has since entered common usage, becoming a generational reference for any kind of modeling clay.\",\"id\":\"331650c1-a0ef-4221-a8d7-35134a8acf52\"},{\"content\":\"Giovan Battista Vialardi (1804\u20131872) was the royal chef of the House of Savoy in Turin. He authored the influential Trattato di cucina (1854), a landmark in 19th-century Italian gastronomy.\",\"id\":\"74588f93-1863-40ea-8fdf-561cc04763f1\"}]"},"categories":[1620],"tags":[1854,1959,2060,2061],"location":[1682,1743,1754],"class_list":["post-150853","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-essay","tag-fine-dining-3","tag-contemporary-gastronomy","tag-davide-scabin","tag-history-of-italian-contemporary-gastronomy","location-italy","location-piedmont","location-turin"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/cookinc.it\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/150853","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/cookinc.it\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/cookinc.it\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/cookinc.it\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/3"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/cookinc.it\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=150853"}],"version-history":[{"count":15,"href":"https:\/\/cookinc.it\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/150853\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":155402,"href":"https:\/\/cookinc.it\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/150853\/revisions\/155402"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/cookinc.it\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/138390"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/cookinc.it\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=150853"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/cookinc.it\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=150853"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/cookinc.it\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=150853"},{"taxonomy":"location","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/cookinc.it\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/location?post=150853"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}