{"id":141063,"date":"2025-07-11T08:33:12","date_gmt":"2025-07-11T06:33:12","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/cookinc.it\/?p=141063"},"modified":"2025-12-02T11:10:16","modified_gmt":"2025-12-02T10:10:16","slug":"hidden-layers-of-istanbul","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/cookinc.it\/en\/2025\/07\/11\/hidden-layers-of-istanbul\/","title":{"rendered":"Hidden layers of Istanbul"},"content":{"rendered":"\n\n\n

To understand Istanbul<\/strong> \u2013 a complex, layered city divided between continents and contradictions \u2013 we have chosen to rely on a special perspective: that of Maksut A\u015fkar<\/strong>. A visionary chef, the soul behind the restaurant Neolokal<\/strong>, Maksut is one of the most authoritative voices in the new Turkish cuisine. But before being a chef, he is a curious storyteller, capable of reading his city through flavors, habits, and everyday rituals.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Originating from Iskenderun, in southern Turkey, Maksut moved to Istanbul at a young age and over the years has built a deep connection with this sprawling and fascinating metropolis. His narrative weaves between past and present, hidden alleys and bustling markets, the European and Asian sides of the Bosporus.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Together with him, we have mapped out a personal, almost intimate journey: a map made of heartfelt addresses, street food stalls, resilient shops, and glimpses that escape the tourist radar.<\/mark> An itinerary that, before bringing us back to the table at Neolokal, tells the story of Istanbul in fragments, through the eyes, memory, and taste of those who inhabit it every day.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n
\n
\"\"<\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n
\n
\"\"<\/figure>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n

A marathon of tastings with Maksut<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
\n

The heart of Istanbul, encompassing the districts of Galata and Beyoglu and the alleyways adjacent to Istiklal Caddesi, the primary commercial and tourist hub, serves as an idea starting point for sampling authentic Turkish street food during the early hours of the day. Embracing a sumptuous breakfast in accordance with local customs, this area boasts numerous small eateries that, having stood the test of time, have maintained a consistent menu featuring a handful of dishes with minimal alterations.<\/p>\n<\/blockquote>\n\n\n\n

Maksut ventures into a maze of already bustling streets in the early morning. His first stop is at Lades Menemen<\/a><\/strong>, a restaurant open since 1969 that has become famous over the years for its various preparations of scrambled eggs (menemen<\/em>, in fact), kavurma<\/em> (eggs fried in the pan with meat preserved in its own fat), and omelettes made with sausage, pastrami, meat, or cheese. They are also known for a rather unique dessert, a pudding made using chicken breast, called tavuk g\u00f6\u011fs\u00fc<\/em>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

“In ancient times – reveals Maksut – dessert shops were located very close to places where chicken was cooked because to achieve the necessary consistency for making the sweet, the chicken had to be killed and cooked within five hours. This way, the meat, reduced to very thin filaments, could be combined with milk, sugar, or preferred flavours like cinnamon, and it could maintain the right consistency. There is even a \u201cburnt\u201d version of this dessert, called kazandibi<\/em>, which originated when the milk cream browned at the bottom of the pot. Because this variation became so popular, the cream eventually began to be deliberately caramelised. You might then ask me what happened to the rest of the chicken… Simple, it was used in various ways during breakfast. From the eggs for the menemen<\/em> to the chicken soup, and up to tavuklu pilav<\/em> \u2013 the rice with chicken and chickpeas. These are the dishes that have always characterised the true Turkish breakfast, to which you can add eggs, tomatoes, peppers, honey, kaymak<\/em> (clotted cream), and occasionally cucumbers”.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n
\n
\"\"<\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n
\n
\"\"<\/figure>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n

Almost in front of Lades, just a few meters from our first breakfast spot, you can indulge in a tasty stop at Sinem B\u00f6rek<\/a><\/strong>, to try the classic yufka <\/em>pastry rolls<\/mark> (the Turkish name for phyllo dough). They are baked in an old open oven and filled with meat, spinach, cheese, or even sweet variations \u2013\u00a0a classic street food found across many Balkan countries and a culinary tradition passed down through the centuries, especially during the Ottoman westward expansions. And even though our stomachs are already quite full, it’s time to follow the chef for more tastings, on a long walk that reveals the cultural richness and liveliness of neighbourhoods that feel like small cities. \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Markets, impromptu street food stalls on every corner<\/mark> \u2013 perfect for a quick bite, like the delicious kokore\u00e7<\/em> we stumbled upon (made from lamb offal and among the most popular street foods in Turkey). And everywhere, echoes of ancient cultures resonate: in the voices and glances of the people we meet, in the circular movements of the dervishes that captivate passersby along \u0130stiklal, and in the lively bustle of commerce that so often invites a stop, much like in the Arab souks. Maksut wisely decides to have us experience 4\/5 mini-lunches for a full immersion with tastings of all kinds, off the beaten path, even though we couldn’t avoid certain absolute culinary classics like kebabs<\/em>. In this case, the d\u00f6ner<\/em> version. \u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n
\n
\"\"<\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n
\n
\"\"<\/figure>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n

“Two stops have entered my heart and are located just a few hundred meters away from Neolokal,” he explains. “The first one is at Donerci Engin Usta<\/strong><\/a>, a restaurant specialized in d\u00f6ner kebab<\/em>, which is grilled meat on a vertical spit that rotates continuously; quite different from the classic kebab made of skewers cooked on the grill. At Engin Usta’s, you can opt for a sandwich (ekmek<\/em>), a pita, or a quick wrap, to be enjoyed on the sidewalk or while walking, in true street food style. Alternatively, you can sit in one of the tiny indoor rooms where, at any time of day until the meat runs out, you can enjoy your d\u00f6ner<\/em> accompanied by a refreshing glass of ayran<\/em>, a yogurt-based drink with salt and water that often helps balance out the spiciness of the meat.”<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Then, not too far away, there is also Me\u00f6hur Karak\u00f6y Pilavcisi<\/strong>, just a small shop with a few seats, located near the fish market at the Galata Bridge, where one stops for a dish of pilaf rice and chicken. “When I opened Neolokal, more than ten years ago, I started exploring the surroundings to search among the scents and flavors of popular cuisine”, says Maksut. “That’s how I met Ilhami, this chef who has been cooking an extraordinary dish of rice and chicken since 2002, and he does it with great passion, mainly working with the locals and the lunch break workers. I’ve eaten this dish all around Istanbul, but only here has it’s flavour remain unchanged, a taste that has settled into my memory and accompanies me through the seasons.<\/mark> Unfortunately, one thing unites all the street food restaurants we visited, even those with a long history. They are all realities that certainly cannot look optimistically towards the future, partly because there are no children or relatives who can or want to continue this work, and partly because young chefs choose to start working immediately in the fine-dining world, when they could easily gain experience and learn how to prepare pide<\/em> (the traditional boat-shaped pizza) or some other classic Turkish dishes”.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n
\n
\"\"<\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n
\n
\"\"<\/figure>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n

Moving around the city to discover a ready-to-eat cuisine, of popular origin, lived and enjoyed daily by its inhabitants has its own undeniable charm. Even for Maksut himself, whose eyes light up every time he shares with them a gesture, a place, a flavour that reveals the essence of Istanbul. And for this reason, in his list of visits, there are two other addresses very close to each other that have become almost a second home for the chef, located in the lively but somewhat decentralized district of Yenik\u00f6y<\/strong>, on the shores of the Bosphorus<\/strong> towards the Black Sea.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Apartiman<\/strong><\/a> is the classic restaurant that everyone would want to have nearby, for a breakfast, for a quick coffee, for an aperitif, or for an informal dinner<\/mark> in one of the many well-kept spaces that range from the discreet terrace where sleepy cats often lounge (Istanbul probably has a higher number of cats than its not-so-few residents), to the livelier patio that overlooks the main street and where one can observe the daily hustle and bustle. What makes this place so special is the skill of the young and talented chef Bur\u00e7ak Kvazdal<\/strong> and her brother Murat, who mostly takes care of the welcoming atmosphere. It’s a pleasant combination where on the one hand, Bur\u00e7ak enhances seasonal products treated with wisdom and simplicity by working on creative ideas and exploring various Turkish delicacies from both the sea and the inland, while on the other hand, Murat, displaying an ancient discretion, graciously interacts with the customers.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n
\n
\"\"<\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n
\n
\"\"<\/figure>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n

The cuisine here is full of flavour and maintains a strong connection with the traditional flavours that Bur\u00e7ak handles with care.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Whether it’s one of the tasty seasonal salads featuring herbs, vegetables, Isabella grapes, or pomegranate, or the monumental eggplant sweetened with grape molasses \u2013 it’s already worth the trip. Then come the hearty meat dishes ranging from Tripe stew and Lamb shank to the most classic Ribs sold by weight, always precisely and displayed on a chalkboard at the entrance of Apartiman. The fish selection is equally impressive, such as the excellent sea bream Rillette with parsley, tahini, onions, almonds, and a chickpea cracker (topik<\/em>) or a simple Karabiga shrimp toast, perhaps paired with a glass of wine from a dynamic and stimulating cellar focusing on oranges and new Turkish producers.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n
\n
\"\"<\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n
\n
\"\"<\/figure>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\t\t\r\n\t\t\r\n\t\t\t
<\/div>\r\n\t\t\t
<\/div>\r\n\t\t\t
\r\n\t\t\t\t
\r\n\t\t\t\t\t
Place<\/div>\r\n\t\t\t\t\t
\r\n\t\t\t\t\t\t
World\/Turkey\/Istanbul<\/div>\r\n\t\t\t\t\t\t
<\/div>\r\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\r\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\r\n\t\t\t\t
Apartiman Yenik\u00f6y<\/div>\r\n\t\t\t<\/div>\r\n\t\t<\/a>\r\n\t\n\n\n

Not far away, for seafood lovers, a must-visit place is Yenik\u00f6y Balik\u00e7isi<\/a><\/strong>. Smiling mischievously, Maksut says:<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n

“I don’t want to say it’s like a second home to me, but almost because it’s the restaurant for special occasions, where one can relax, share good times with friends, and enjoy the delights of the sea while sharing a bottle of raki, which for those who don’t know, is an anise-flavored spirit similar to Greek ouzo.”<\/p>\n<\/blockquote>\n\n\n\n

To the point that in the restaurant, loyal customers can rely on their own supply of raki, left from previous visits, displayed with a label that indicates the bottle owner’s name, the only one entitled to consume it or offer it. Fish, as mentioned, is the king of the house’s cuisine, precisely where many of the dishes are displayed in a showcase to discover and choose the specialties of the day. From the must-try slices of Lakerda (mackerel or bonito in brine) to fried anchovies, from octopus to calamari, from red mullet to shrimp, the friendly chef Kaan Kayhan<\/strong> knows the raw materials well and possesses the right skill to narrate them in a style that embraces memories ranging from the Mediterranean to the Balkans, from Greece to the Middle East: a journey without too many frills and prestige games, true comfort seafood that invites conviviality and always leaves excellent memories.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Neolokal<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

The final stop is, of course, the kitchen of Maksut A\u015fkar, that of Neolokal, a restaurant whose name says it all and perfectly encapsulates the true essence of Maksut’s cuisine. Neolokal is innovation and tradition (borrowing a phrase that has been overused in the world of dining), it is respect for raw materials, it is the appreciation of the rich gastronomic culture of Anatolia<\/mark>, but it is also a large family of people, friends, chefs, industry professionals who have embraced a common project for over a decade, and have managed to maintain an enviable freshness and liveliness over time, largely thanks to the chef and his inseparable partner Erim Leblebicioglu<\/strong> \u2013 the duo that embodies the true spirit of the restaurant. Other significant factors should also not be overlooked, starting from the location that houses Neolokal, a former bank that over time has become a popular cultural center with a museum, library, exhibition space, and a caf\u00e9 that not only serves as the entrance to the restaurant but also as a meeting point for students and young people who use the place as a stimulating co-working environment or for a simple coffee break. The bar, like the kitchen, is open and visible on the ground floor of the restaurant, while the actual dining area is located on the upper floor. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n
\n
\"\"<\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n
\n
\"\"<\/figure>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n

Here, with a spectacular view over the Golden Horn<\/strong> and the Sultanahmet<\/strong> district, and a view that literally takes your breath away at sunset<\/mark>, the magic of a cuisine that, as mentioned, has been flying the flag of a millenary gastronomic story for over a decade unfolds. This culinary tradition is Ottoman, rich in cultural influences, multilayered like a society that has lived and thrived on an inexhaustible and extraordinary melting pot, begun long before this word became commonplace.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

A pleasantly nomadic cuisine that moves with agility in the direction of all cardinal points, inevitably embracing since ancient times the neighbouring nations (long before Ataturk’s Turkey acquired its current geography) and somehow passes down to the present day.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

It tells stories of merchants and shepherds, farmers and cultivation, of the Middle East and the Mediterranean, always managing to be cross-cutting and profound in many dishes of popular culture.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Maksut Askar with Neolokal, along with a few other chefs in Istanbul, has managed to play the brilliant role of a modern promoter of tradition, a pioneer capable of casting a curious and investigative eye on the potential of Turkish cuisine reinterpreted through new patterns and contemporary cooking techniques<\/mark>. Maksut’s menu is always exciting; it highlights the taste of the ingredients and takes diners on a journey through Turkey while remaining faithful to the rhythms dictated by the seasons. An example of this is the Turbot, perhaps the most precious fish today from the Black Sea, which is steamed at Neolokal (indicated by the bugulama<\/em> on the menu), accompanied by grilled asparagus, braised cardoon root, leeks, and served with a terbiye<\/em> sauce made by adding fish broth rich in collagen to egg yolk, lemon, yogurt, and butter, following an ancient Anatolian recipe.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n
\n
\"\"<\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n
\n
\"\"<\/figure>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n

Another is the Lamb Neck, a dish with rural origins where a slightly underrated cut of meat, usually found in stews, is elevated through a slow twelve-hour oven cooking process that tenderises the meat by softening its connective tissues. To complete the circle of this flavourful dish \u2013 a lively mix of spices, vegetables, bulgur, and roasted peppers \u2013 are the homemade meatballs (made by Maksut’s mother) which add a nostalgic and familiar touch. Even the dessert is a Turkish classic revisited, less seet than usual: Neolokal’s Baklava has a dough with more butter and less sugar and, in addition to the renowned Gaziantep pistachios, is filled with Ior<\/em> (fresh ricotta) and kaymak<\/em> (a thickened cream similar to clotted cream) and finally served with a burnt sheep milk yogurt and milk film. In addition to the main tasting menu, Neolokal also offers two alternative menus, one vegetarian and one designed for those intolerant to gluten, lactose, and nuts. A wine list featuring exclusively Turkish wines and a bar serving excellent cocktails complete the offering.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Neolokal today is the perfect starting point for those who see fine dining as a wonderful opportunity to explore the many facets of Anatolian cuisine projected towards the future.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

A restaurant destined to last long, fueled by the great curiosity of Maksut. A cultured individual and a history lover, Maksut can elegantly recount the traditions of his country without any embellishments. Walking around Istanbul with him, he introduced us to the bustling and crowded alleys as well as the quiet corners and neighborhoods with ancient and decadent charm where time seems to have stopped and thoughts often drown in a cup of tea.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\t\t\r\n\t\t\r\n\t\t\t
<\/div>\r\n\t\t\t
<\/div>\r\n\t\t\t
\r\n\t\t\t\t
\r\n\t\t\t\t\t
Place<\/div>\r\n\t\t\t\t\t
\r\n\t\t\t\t\t\t
<\/div>\r\n\t\t\t\t\t\t
<\/div>\r\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\r\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\r\n\t\t\t\t
Neolokal<\/div>\r\n\t\t\t<\/div>\r\n\t\t<\/a>\r\n\t","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

To understand Istanbul \u2013 a complex, layered city divided between continents and contradictions \u2013 we have chosen to rely on a special perspective: that of Maksut A\u015fkar. A visionary chef, the soul behind the restaurant Neolokal, Maksut is one of the most authoritative voices in the new Turkish cuisine. But before being a chef, he […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":139011,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"serif-full-gradient","format":"standard","meta":{"_seopress_titles_title":"Hidden layers of Istanbul with Maksut A\u015fkar","_seopress_titles_desc":"Maksut A\u015fkar, visionary chef and the driving force behind Neolokal restauran created a map of beloved addresses in Istanbul that tells the story of the city through the eyes, memories, and tastes of those who live there every day.","_seopress_robots_index":"","_seopress_robots_follow":"","_seopress_robots_imageindex":"","_seopress_robots_snippet":"","_seopress_robots_primary_cat":"","_seopress_robots_breadcrumbs":"","_seopress_robots_freeze_modified_date":"","_seopress_robots_custom_modified_date":"","_seopress_robots_canonical":"","_seopress_social_fb_title":"","_seopress_social_fb_desc":"","_seopress_social_fb_img":"","_seopress_social_fb_img_attachment_id":0,"_seopress_social_fb_img_width":0,"_seopress_social_fb_img_height":0,"_seopress_social_twitter_title":"","_seopress_social_twitter_desc":"","_seopress_social_twitter_img":"","_seopress_social_twitter_img_attachment_id":0,"_seopress_social_twitter_img_width":0,"_seopress_social_twitter_img_height":0,"_seopress_redirections_value":"","_seopress_redirections_enabled":"","_seopress_redirections_enabled_regex":"","_seopress_redirections_logged_status":"","_seopress_redirections_param":"","_seopress_redirections_type":0,"_seopress_analysis_target_kw":"","_seopress_news_disabled":"","_seopress_video_disabled":"","_seopress_video":[],"_seopress_pro_schemas_manual":[],"_seopress_pro_rich_snippets_disable_all":"","_seopress_pro_rich_snippets_disable":[],"_seopress_pro_schemas":[],"selected_color":"","palette":"{\"media_id\":139011,\"colors\":[[207,176,177],[46,42,43],[166,160,174],[151,144,160],[141,129,136]],\"selected\":\"rgb(207, 176, 177)\",\"gradients\":{\"a1\":[\"#fffbff\",\"#fff8f7\",\"#ffdadb\",\"#ffb2b7\",\"#fa8a94\",\"#da717b\",\"#bb5862\",\"#7d2935\",\"#510616\",\"#40000e\",\"#2c0007\"],\"a2\":[\"#fffbff\",\"#fff8f7\",\"#ffdadb\",\"#e6bdbe\",\"#c9a2a3\",\"#ac8889\",\"#916e70\",\"#5c3f41\",\"#381f21\",\"#2c1517\",\"#200a0c\"],\"a3\":[\"#fffbff\",\"#fff8f4\",\"#ffddb3\",\"#e7c08e\",\"#caa575\",\"#ad8b5d\",\"#927146\",\"#5c421a\",\"#372100\",\"#291800\",\"#1b0e00\"],\"n1\":[\"#fffbff\",\"#fff8f7\",\"#ece0df\",\"#d0c4c4\",\"#b4a9a8\",\"#998e8e\",\"#7e7575\",\"#4d4545\",\"#2b2424\",\"#201a1a\",\"#151010\"],\"n2\":[\"#fffbff\",\"#fff8f7\",\"#f4ddde\",\"#d7c1c2\",\"#bba6a7\",\"#9f8c8d\",\"#857373\",\"#524344\",\"#2f2323\",\"#241819\",\"#190e0f\"],\"error\":[\"#fffbff\",\"#fff8f7\",\"#ffdad6\",\"#ffb4ab\",\"#ff897d\",\"#ff5449\",\"#de3730\",\"#93000a\",\"#540003\",\"#410002\",\"#2d0001\"]}}","authors":"[{\"role\":\"Words by\",\"related\":[{\"postType\":\"collaborator\",\"postTypeLabel\":\"Contributor\",\"title\":\"Gualtiero Spotti\",\"url\":\"https:\/\/cookinc.it\/en\/collaboratore\/gualtiero-spotti\/\",\"ID\":144622,\"value\":144622,\"label\":\"Gualtiero Spotti\",\"thumbnail\":false}],\"title\":\"\",\"unique_id\":\"MjYwNDM4MDEzMTA5NjkyNTgw\"},{\"role\":\"Photos by\",\"related\":[{\"postType\":\"collaborator\",\"postTypeLabel\":\"Contributor\",\"title\":\"Stefano Borghesi\",\"url\":\"https:\/\/cookinc.it\/en\/collaboratore\/stefano-borghesi\/\",\"ID\":144625,\"value\":144625,\"label\":\"Stefano Borghesi\",\"thumbnail\":false}],\"title\":\"\",\"unique_id\":\"NzM3MTk2NjQyMTE5NTMzMDAw\"}]","magazine_id":"146861","footnotes":""},"categories":[1618],"tags":[1887,1949,1982,1983],"location":[1804,1837,1839],"class_list":["post-141063","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-journey","tag-street-food-2","tag-contemporary-cuisine","tag-where-to-eat-in-istanbul","tag-turkish-gastronomy","location-world","location-turkey","location-istanbul-en"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/cookinc.it\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/141063","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/cookinc.it\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/cookinc.it\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/cookinc.it\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/cookinc.it\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=141063"}],"version-history":[{"count":14,"href":"https:\/\/cookinc.it\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/141063\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":225743,"href":"https:\/\/cookinc.it\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/141063\/revisions\/225743"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/cookinc.it\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/139011"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/cookinc.it\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=141063"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/cookinc.it\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=141063"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/cookinc.it\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=141063"},{"taxonomy":"location","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/cookinc.it\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/location?post=141063"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}